Drill Hammer Chisel SDS Plus Tile Removal Tool Hammer Drill Chisel Cleaning Tools Plaster Tiles Removal Wall Shovels for Construction and Renovation

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If decorators' caulk has been used to fill any gaps, get a Stanley knife and carefully run the blade between the skirting and the wall to cut through the caulk. This can be a time-consuming job. Therefore, it’s quite common to just break the board and replace them. It will save time and sometimes it is just the easier option. Leave it to dry fully, which may take 24 hours or so and once done you’re ready for the final stage.

Just like with the plaster removal, it’s generally best to start at the top of the wall and work your way down. This will prevent you from pulling lath down onto areas that still have lath attached, which could be hazardous. Use a Crowbar or Pry Bar Using a 3 inch paint brush, dip it in the X-Tex and then apply it to the artex. Be liberal when applying and ensure there’s a good coating. Hold the chisel at a slight angle to the wall, placing its edge on one of the scored lines. With your other hand, tap the end of the chisel lightly with the hammer. The goal is to use enough force to break the plaster along the scored lines, but not so much that you damage the underlying lath too severely or risk punching through the wall into wiring or plumbing. Breaking Up the Plaster Note: if it’s not smooth or there is too much damage then worse case scenario you will need to get it skim plastered over before it can be decorated. Removing Artex using Eco Solutions X–Tex

These need to be cut and fitted properly to get a matching hard to spot fit. Learn how to scribe skirting boards to get the perfect internal join. How Can I Remove Skirting Board Nails?

Re-Score the Plaster: If the plaster isn’t breaking along the scored lines as expected, you may need to score the plaster again. Deepen the existing scores or make new ones, forming smaller squares. This might help control the breakage and make the removal easier. Remove Nails or Screws: Once you’ve pried off a section, there may be nails or screws left in the wall studs. These can be removed with a claw hammer or a screwdriver, respectively. The systematic approach of working your way down the wall has several benefits, not least of which is safety. Here’s how to go about it: You'll realise that it won't take much for this thin plastic material sheeting to tear, and after a few bits of falling plaster it will end up practically useless. You'll need to lay something extra on top. Make sure you have covered the entire surface. Untouched areas will produce plastered areas that will be hard almost as soon as the plaster touches them!Following this, take your crowbar or a chisel and place it on the joint where the board meets the wall. Next gently hit with your hammer to separate the board from the wall. Do this in a few places to create a small gap behind the skirting.

Stripping artex with a steamer cannot be done at speed, you will need to work slowly and methodically as if the steam plate is left in one area too long, there is a possibility of damaging the ceiling or wall behind it as the steam will penetrate through and soften this also, which you certainly don’t want. Before you do however, as plasterboard is as porous as bare plaster, it will need to be sealed. To do this you can use a plasterboard sealer or you can give it 2 coats of watered down PVA or SBR (mixed at 75% PVA/SBR to 25% water). Use a Stud Detector: Buy or borrow a stud detector and run it over the surface of the wall or ceiling in several places and mark both edges of each joist. Once marked join all the lines up so that you can clearly see where each joist is across the width of the room. This is probably the easiest method Plasterboarding over artex is pretty much the same process as plastering over it, only instead of laying on plaster, you’re covering it with plasterboard.Remember that the lath was nailed to the wall studs, so as you’re removing it, you’re likely to encounter nails. Some of these may be rusty or have sharp, jagged edges. Be mindful of your hands and fingers as you’re prying the lath loose, and use a sturdy pair of gloves to protect your hands. Watch Out for Sharp Wood Sweep Up Smaller Pieces: After you’ve removed the larger pieces, sweep up the smaller pieces of debris. A stiff-bristle broom is particularly effective for this. Be careful to collect any nails or other sharp objects. Style is subjective and if you don't like the current skirting boards you can take a look at skirting board ideas to fit in with the aesthetic you are trying to create. This might include more ornate skirting with an intricate style, or perhaps something a little more contemporary. Next, cover any and all flooring with plastic dust sheets as again, plaster can soak in and once dry is a nightmare to get out.

The process of breaking up the plaster is a gradual one and patience is key to ensure the work is done effectively and safely. Despite your best efforts, you may encounter areas of the wall where the plaster proves stubborn and does not come off as easily as anticipated. These can be challenging, but here are some strategies to deal with them:Typically before 1984, asbestos was used to strengthen artex so if your house is old there is a very good chance that asbestos may be present in your artex. Despite this, asbestos could still be used all the way up to 2000 by a license holder so even if your house is fairly new, don’t assume that there is none present! Starting Point: Start from the top of your scored wall. The reason for this is twofold: firstly, gravity is on your side, making it easier for plaster chunks to fall away from the wall. Secondly, by removing the upper plaster first, you prevent large, heavy chunks of plaster from falling from a height later in the process, which could be dangerous. Their flat top gives you an edge to work to and finishes flush with the surface of the plaster. When decorated they are not visible.