Trumpeter TRU03719 Plastic Model kit

Product Information

The kit comes with LED lighting, although it's very bright white and not really appropriate for the incandescent lighting used in 1912. The Facebook threads have talked about ways to either replace them with warmer white LEDs, or possibly give them a thin overpaint of off white or tan paint to warm up the colour. I'm still pondering the risk/reward for reshaping the bow hawse hole as another example. It might not be worth it if I have a misshaped blob on the bow if I mess it up. And I'm not sure it is worth the effort to cut everything away and insert a 3D print replacement with all the shaping and putty that would still be needed. I’m not drilling all those holes with a pin vise… no way. Here is a critical tool that I’ve had in my toolkit for a few years – a small Tamiya battery powered drill designed with plastic in mind: Below is kit supplied PE, there are a few other pieces from the upgrade set that I'm working on now.

As promised on one of my original posts, this will be a bit of a sporadic build while I finish my Niagara. In truth, I don’t think I needed these centering holes except for the largest porthole sizes. The bit size would generally match close enough in the small and medium porthole sizes that it didn’t allow for any drift. UPS are saying mine will be here on Thursday from E Models ... still dont know where I'm going to put it, Box or finished kit, LOL. The remaining holes were easily finished off and everything looks good… I’ll proceed to the next largest portholes in my next session.

Bachmann Spares (UK)

The rudder outline was snipped using scissors to get a rough outline that was refined with a hobby knife and smoothed using a coarse flex file. Spaces to fill were also traced with tape and transferred to styrene strips to form the next plates. This scratch building was actually the very first thing I did on the kit after I first bought it a few years ago… I wanted to see what I could make of this area before I invested any time elsewhere.

Obviously most (all?) casual observers seeing my completed model are not gonna know whether the portholes are all correctly located, or any extraneous doors are included, but it gives me satisfaction knowing that a little more effort put things right. RMS Titanic Model Research and Tech hosted by Zeno Silva and friends. You’ll find Bob Read, Cyril, and Vasilije all contributing here. Upon seeing the end of the film that first time, sat through all the credits and when the lights went up, saw some amazing stuff, people were visibly moved from all ages, young and old, one older lady and younger lady were holding each other as the older lady audibly and visibly cried ... Mother and Daughter I assumed? ... upon walking to exit, lots of people were murmuring, that was excellent and other such good praises ... and I couldn't agree more.There have been lots of injection moulded models of the Titanic before but this is the first to be in this large scale and it, without doubt, is the most accurate model to date, that isn’t to say there aren’t inaccuracies but more on that later on in the build. I will be using a number of books, primarily 'Titanic - The Ship Magnificent', to reference corrections to the hull (and model overall) as I go. I'm not a rivet counter, and have nothing put respect for those who are, but there are some obvious errors and omissions on the hull which even I should be able to fix up. If you choose to use Trumpeters recommended Cocoa Brown, don't because it is too brown. I added a 50% bright red mix and got it right the second time unlike the below first attempt. Lastly, I noticed that the size of the portholes along the upper stern were a bit undersized based on the reference photo of the Olympic under construction: