Rustic Shelf Brackets Scaffold Board Bracket x 2 Heavy Duty Industrial UK

Product Information

Once we’d cut our boards to size, I gave them a light sanding and then applied a thin layer of oil using a paintbrush. The space between our bottom and middle shelf, and top shelf and ceiling, is exactly the same (30cm).

We’ve used our evolution mitre saw* to cut the wood to size, but you can also use an inexpensive handsaw and mitre box too. To make the best use of this narrow space, we’ve planned to create our shelves in an L-shape going along the left-hand side and also at the back, where shelves will be a bit deeper for larger tools and boxes. At the end of the room, we’ve added some strips of timber on the wall on either side to support those deeper shelves.

This gap not only looks neat, but is big enough to accommodate the minimum distance required by building regulations between water source (the tap) and lighting (LED strips that will run underneath the shelves).

We’re using new scaffold boards (as opposed to used ones) for this project, however, it means they currently lack any character. In this photo, you can see the metal strip on the left of the bottom shelf (it’s on the right on the middle shelf). I’ve used some 120-grit sandpaper for this and then finished with a coloured coat in the colour ‘Peacock’ from Ronseal Garden’s Range*. We used our Makita belt sander to do the main sanding, and then finished off the battered bits by hand with normal sandpaper, as using the belt sander would have removed too much of the character of the wood.It’s quite “rough and ready” in its raw finish, but as we’ll be using this space for tool storage – it’s perfect! One of the questions I get asked most frequently is where we bought the rustic shelves and industrial metal supports in our kitchen, so here’s a post explaining where they came from and how we installed them. To make the brackets for our scaffold shelves, we’re going to be using these roof battens*, however, you can use any similar-sized piece of timber (25mm x 38mm). We’ll be using one full scaffold plank and then half a plank which we’ll achieve by cutting a plank lengthways down the centre.

Now we finally have electricity in our victorian cellar, we can actually start to properly use the space! We used Osmo topcoat oil on the worktops, but chose to use Fiddes wax in Rugger Brown on the shelves to give a different finish.I’m sure we could have gotten away with using 4 or even 3 brackets, but we wanted to feel really confident that shelves would be fully supported. I spaced them (as you can see above) so they were fastened in place in the middle of a metro tile rather than randomly. I experimented with the best place to include the slightly larger gap (which was needed to neatly accommodate whole metro tiles underneath) by drawing various lines on the wall to see what look best to the eye.