Burning Shield: The Jason Schechterle Story

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However, if any of these options are impossible or undesirable, you could opt for a heat shield instead! Once everything lines up, continue the installation by screwing in the spacers around the top, bottom, and sides of the heat shield.

We may test that at some point in the future, but for now, I’d suggest going no closer than 6″ with an air-cooled wall shield. hsl_parent_dependency":{"h":0,"l":1,"s":0}}},"gradients":[]},"original":{"colors":{"f3080":{"val":"rgb(23, 23, 22)","hsl":{"h":60,"s":0. That’s roughly the temperature you’d expect from a chimney fire, so there’s a chance it could fail and allow the fire to spread to the structure. Keep in mind that the tiles need to be entirely non-combustible, so make sure the tiles have no combustible coating and make sure they’re actually metal and not plastic or something else. Ventilated metal heat shield thickness specified in NFPA-211 is 24 gauge for both appliance and connector clearance reduction.The biggest “approved” reduction (per NFPA-211) would be with an air-cooled wall shield, which can reduce clearances by up to 2/3. Per the NFPA-211 guidelines, simply covering the surface of a combustible material with a thin layer of non-combustible material provides no rated clearance reduction. My question mainly arose because I was trying to get some free metal for a community Facebook page and there’s some that is 2mm thick but nothing as thing as 24 guage!

To clarify when you say there should be an inch space around the metal shield – we have a sheet rock wall and made the section behind the stove indented one inch with the hope that the heat shield could then be flush to the rest of the wall once installed On top of 1”ceramic spacers. We had a Hobbit stove fitted this week by Alex Reay from Flues and Fires, and I just wanted to get in touch to say it is AMAZING and we love it! The requirements vary from 2″ solid masonry with sheet metal on top for stoves with 6″ legs or ventilated stands, to 4″ hollow masonry with internal air flow and sheet metal on top for stoves with 2″ legs or ventilated stands, to requiring a fully non-combustible floor (gravel, concrete, or earth with nothing combustible on the underside) for stoves with legs shorter than 2″.Can a shield be 2 to 3 inches away from the stove back and sides and 4 to 5 inches away from the walls?

As the shield is heated, the natural convection of air passing behind the shield will keep the shield and the material behind it cool. This version of the Vlaze heat shield is finished with an embossed glaze which gives it a distinct and immediately identifiable appearance. Wood paneling, foil bubble wrap, or whatever other materials you’re using in construction are fine as long as they are outside of the stove’s rated clearance to combustibles. You could also build a heat shield from masonry materials, provided that you include means for air flow to dissipate the heat radiating from your stove. Without adequate clearance from your stove, a combustible wall or object can overheat, dry out and present a fire hazard.The vast majority of the bolts on the Dwarf Stove, including the accessory mounting points, are threaded M6 1. Here's a photo of our little stove, now our pride and joy and much admired by all who see and feel the warmth. It’s important to note that if your stove has a nominal heat output not exceeding 7kW, as referenced on the CE data plate or in the manufacturers installation instructions, then you can use it in conjunction with a heat shield. Sometimes you’ll see materials near your stove discolouring or charring – in which case you know they need to be protected from the heat.