Waterproof Silicone Flexible Heating Pad 60*60MM DC 12V 10W

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My thought is to pull the batteries out of the enclouser their in (keeps them moving) putting 1/4" piece of plywood on the bottom (maybe a thin piece of solid foam insulation under it), piece of felt on the plywood top, the heating pad normally would get stuck to a plastic holding tank/ water tank I was thinking of getting a piece of aluminum and sticking the pad to the bottom of it to tansfer the heat better, then putting a piece of felt on the top of aluminum with the batteries on top of that. I was prepared incase this happened with my little heater to give the compartment and the cells some quick heat. The goal to fulltiming in an rv is to run from extreme cold weather but in the past 2 years I've had to be in it for a short duration before I could move. I have read the instructions, as well, and there are several incorrect statements, and the photos do not show how you are wiring the pad.

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We're having a cold spell of single digits tonight but yesterday was a high of 32f and got down to 14f outside. If the thermal wraps are needed in your application, wrap each battery after the heating pads are applied to the batteries. The only thing that I'm thinking about is with the built in temp on the heating pad will it be turning itself off because it will be within the sandwich under the batteries and not in an open air space of holding tanks? I don't know how effective this would be but I thought it could a handy way of making use of energy that would otherwise be wasted. Note: Expion360 will be incorporating a thermal cutoff switch in their generation 2 VPR PowerMod batteries, which will be available in the spring of 2020.

I'm going to insulate the entire inside floor with foam board and put the rubber mat on top of it, along with pulling the batteries out again and adding the foam board under the rubber mat already in place. I believe the metal floor is working like a large heat sink in the below freezing weather and just won't hold any heat during the winter and sucks out any warmth in the compartment and cells. This morning I was preparing a glowing report on how well our new heat pad worked during our first 2 nights at 15 degrees. Once the positive and negative terminals have their corresponding ring terminals crimped and attached, you are ready to test the pad!

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Not only does the lithium battery provide a much higher usable capacity (90 percent) compared to the lead acid battery (50 percent), but it also weighs less, charges faster, and lasts longer. After thinking about this I decided to not go with a heating pad instead I purchased 1/2" thick rubber pad, cut it down to fit snuggly in the bottom of the battery box to get the batteries off the metal floor. As the temperature sensor needs to fit closely to the battery, make sure to measure your wire length and always leave a little extra length until you are ready to complete the heat pad’s installation. Fixing that with a simple passive solution is far superior to adding the complexity of a heat pad and it's controls. Eric used about ten inches of wire for this connection (less than the positive as the temperature sensor has more length).You'd be surprised how much heat even 30 watts can give off inside a small ice chest or insulated box. Besides the heat pad, which is set to come on about 38°F I also have a total disconnect of the batteries from everything set at about 35°F. Easy to install with Self-adhesive design and 3mm thickness foam insulation prevents heat from disappearing rapidly. For instance, there are not, “…additional four wires from the temperature sensor”, as you state in the instructions.