Hager Ashley/ Klik Ashley J501 16A Downlighter Junction Box Terminal Connector

Product Information

I've done quite a bit of research (not to mention I've done it before many years ago but can't remember a bloomin' thing!) but can't quite find the exact and non-conflicted answers but hope you can answer them: I've just realised though, I'm not clear on where to actually connect the first downlight to the existing light switch. To me, the simplest way is to join the 1mm T&E to the first downlight is in the (please see photo) existing ceiling rose itself although there's already 3 of them, is that still acceptable? The lights are double insulated so I wasn't planning to run an Earth (and there is no terminal on the casing). Multipurpose electrical junction enclosure with integrated adjustable cable clamps. Designed for use with Wago 224 series connectors. Supports upto 6 cables. Fits through a 60mm dia. downlighter hole. I think you should spend some time learning how lighting circuits work, if you think that photo shows 3 lights connected.

It seems a junction box is needed whereby the 5 downlights are all (parallel) connected to it along with the ceiling rose. If so, which type of junction box (can I simply use a large chocbox?) should/must I use? If you can put a link to one please that would be great.

I'd definitely use junction boxes, you have more flexibility where they're situated and accessible plus wiring them in a confined space will be a whole lot easier. Could also use Wagos with their boxes, choose your poison.

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Can I put the junction box on or between a ceiling joist or must it now be visible for ins access at all times? Someone has suggested it needs to be put somewhere on the ceiling such as next to the ceiling rose but surely that spoils the appearance? I take it this all falls under the Part P in which case does the certifier need to have access to everything such as under the floorboards? Add to quote” – this option allows to you gather items together and ask us for a no obligation quote. We’ll do our best to improve our already competitive prices where possible. Cables exit at either end of the junction box, allowing for ease of installation, pushing or pulling through a cut-out without the risk of damage to the wiring or loosening connections. Cable Connectors - Speed up your installations with a cable connector and create a more professional installation

These downlights are being installed under the bathroom floorboards which is above the kitchen. Do I need any special covers or requirements because of this? If you’re not sure about quantities, sizes or have any other questions about your electrical wholesale products, our Electrical2Go sales team will be more than happy to help. Give them a call now on 01424 220384. KEY FEATURES Please let us know should you like to discuss anything and we’ll get you in touch with an electrician who can provide a professional advice!Also i dont believe this work falls under Part P / notification regulations but could be wrong - anyone know? Hager has applied the quality and expertise of design which has made them a favourite throughout the trades, aligning all terminals to maximise wiring space, whilst applying a logical, easy to use 3 plate terminal style with separate terminals for flexible cords, ideal for protecting smaller flexible conductors. Features of Hager J501: Downlight Covers & Loft Caps - If you want to cover your downlights with thermal insulation and your downlights aren't insulation coverable, these handy loft lids are a great solution Lamp holders & spares - If you're converting from MR16 to GU10, we've got GU10 lampholders available that allow you to convert your existing downlights into mains voltage GU10 Enclosures - Ideal for storing those delicate electronic components inside to keep them safe and dry, our ABS enclosures come with a mounting plate and are ideal for lighting applications