Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement, 40ml

Product Information

https://www.faller.de/gb/en/Products/Model-layout-construction/Utilities/SUPER-EXPERT-Plastic-Glue-25-g-sid9758.html Now I use Tamiya and Mig liquid glue for a while, they work great, left no residues and are able to glue very little parts without effort.

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It is also a great helper when you need to create the glass of positional and other lights on a model. Just a put small blob of the glue where you want the “glass” to form and leave it to dry. When dry, it is possible to paint the “glass” with acrylic clear paints such as Tamiya’s X-27 Clear Red. For years, I used ordinary lacquer thinner when working with styrene, but several years ago, they changed the components of it, and while it's still useful as a paint thinner and brush cleaner, it is absolutely useless as a cement for styrene. Warning– You must be careful with the thin plastic cement. When you are pressing the pieces together and you manage to accidentally touch your own finger with the brush, you will end up with your fingerprint imprinted into the surface of the plastic part. It is not difficult to fix with sandpaper and/or putty but it’s extremely annoying. You’ve been warned. For general kit assembly where appearance is paramount, I use Testors. For a bond that will be hidden and/or for a connection where I want a REALLY strong bond that I don't EVER want to come apart, I use Plastruct.The glue can be used to glue canopies of aircraft models or windscreens of car models without fear of them getting damaged. If you accidentally put the glue where you don’t want it, just wipe it off with a moistened q-tip. The glue is waterproof when cured. For example, a bit of isopropyl alcohol can be used to remove the cured glue. If you are using cement that has a built-in brush in the cap, don’t use the brush when gluing parts that have already been painted. If you do so, you will most likely get some paint on the brush tip and it will, in turn, get transferred into the rest of the glue in the jar. Over time, this can cause deterioration of the glue’s adhesive or welding properties. After making several applications, I did get it to work, but because some areas were quite wet when I placed the heavy paper images on the styrene, some were distorted when the MEK soaked through to the printed-on image. So I just opened up my bottle of Tamiya Extra thin and I have a few questions. Let me preface this by saying that I've only used Testors plastic cement until now.

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The brush is a clear plastic tube with clear bristles, and is quite large. Compared to the brush from the extra thin cement, it is huge. Because of the clear material, it is hard to see how much cement is on the brush. It holds a lot. If taken from the bottle and applied directly to a model, cement will be running all over the place, so it would be best to replace the brush with a spare from a used extra thin bottle, or use a fine paint brush. I first came accros this product at the Original Caboose Hobbies. It was less expensive than the other brands.Almost all plastic model kits require you to glue the parts of the kit together. The only exceptions are the snap-fit kits and even those can be glued to achieve a much better overall look. The cement should not be used to flood the plastic parts because it will take ages for them completely dry. For example, if you use too much glue to join the fuselage halves of an aircraft kit, you will often have to wait days before you can start sanding down the joint. If you start sanding and paining too soon a small ridge-like depression may form at the location of the joint. This is often called a ghost seam line. That glue is pretty much the same as the Revell/ GW/ModelMasters, just in a glass bottle. The brush is way too big IMHO, and is not the best applicator for small parts.. The very simplicety of the kits is the trap for careless stupid mistake construction so take your time and don't rush. Now let’s have a look at the best glues for plastic kits. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement– Overall Best Plastic Glue

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Leave it to dry without touching it – You will know it’s dry when the glue turns clear from its normal milky colorI really don't think there is a best. They all work in basically the same way, and different people have their preference. For large surface areas I have converted almost entirely to using very thin transfer tape, such as 3M makes. I have it in 1" and 3/4" width rolls. The only downside is that it is unforgiving and you are well advised to get it right the first time. Has the same size brush as the extra thin and if it stays where its put rather than running like the extra thin.