Marley Bathroom Extractor Fan 5 Inch 5" In-line Ventilation Without Timer Flexible Ducting Kit Included Wall or Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Bathroom Shower Wet Room WC

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Firstly the cable is capped over using a PVC capping or piece of trunking. This then protects the cable in the wall. Its not a smart a**ed reply. Some people on this forum (who dont get paid for it, mind) have taken a lot of care to put together guides to help with the more commonly asked questions. If you do this for plumbing and it goes wrong you get wet and annoyed. If it electrics you might not live to regret it.

If however an axial fan (one through the wall) is being installed this will need to go on an outside external wall. From the fused connection unit the installation must then have a 3-pole isolation switch that provides at least 3mm of separation on ALL live conductors when the switch is off.My current extractor fan with timer (RDL model G510) has stopped working, so I have bought a replacement - Marley NDX100T.

As with the steps above, either a shower isolator switch is used that is normally installed outside the bathroom above the door or it’s possible to use a 3-pole pull cord switch that is usually installed in zone 3 inside the bathroom. Again, if you are working on the ground floor then you may need to pop up some floor boards from above to run cables and access existing lighting circuits. Again, if installing a axial fan through the wall you may need to chase out a section of wall to run the cable to the fan.Once isolated, the next job is to install the fan isolation switch/3-pole switch. Where this is done will depend on the switch you have. Apologies if this question has been asked before, but I have browsed and cannot see exactly what I am after. This wiring diagram shows an easy to follow configuration for a bathroom extractor fan fitted with a timer, that’s not going to be turned on by the existing light switch. Instead, we are going to install a new switch that will turn the fan on and off. No. It means that the switched live output from the light switch needs to go to both the light and the fan (Via fused switched outlet).

In terms of zones and where a switch can be fitted, this is generally best done in an area of zone 3, but you have to ensure that the correct rating of switch is also used, but your electrician will know for sure what to use. Tools and Products Needed to Wire a Timed Extractor Fan Its at the top of the forum. it couldnt be clearer, its the first thing you see. It says FAQ, Read here first . However, I would probably still have asked the question as the diagram quite clearly states that the set up described is not for a bathroom and not wishing to breach some huge safety aspect I would have posted question anyway.If it isn’t and there is no official evidence to prove it’s been done by a professional with the required qualifications then in the event of any issues it is likely that your home insurance won’t be valid and if you come to sell your home then this can again cause huge issues. Does it mean that I have two live feeds going into the light switch, one for the light and one for the fan? From the FCU, the 3-pole isolator switch is connected up using a suitable length of cable that’s stripped at both ends. It’s connected between the 2 units, neutral terminal to neutral terminal, live terminal to live terminal and earths to earths. Despite this, if you are unfamiliar with working on and around electricity then you are better off getting the pros in to do it for you! Wiring a Timed Extractor Fan Switched on by its Own Switch

Before anything is done at all the very first job is to isolate the power to the circuit you will be working on! This means pulling out the fuse or turning off the MCB for the lighting circuit the bathroom light is getting power from. Once capped over any chases are then filled using a suitable type of filler or plaster. Once dried it can then be sanded flat with the surrounding surfaces and then finally painted. This then enables the independent pull-cord switch to trigger the fan, and allow it to run on, in accordance with the timer setting when the fan is switched off. It must also be possible to isolate the fan by means of a pull cord switch inside the bathroom, or a fan isolation (3-pole) switch outside of the bathroom.A 4-termial junction box is required to connect up the fan, 3-pole switch and the pull switch, and is wired similarly to a ceiling rose or light junction box, utilising connections for earth, neutral, (permanent) live and a switch-live. There are other ways to achieve this where the junction box connections are housed within the 3-pole isolation switch, but that is more complicated to explain and increases the chances of something going wrong. When it comes to electrical work in the bathroom, as this is regareded as a “special location” by the regulations, any electrical work can and should only be carried out by a Part P registered electrician so that it is ensured the circuit is installed correctly and to regulations standard, can be fully tested once complete and finally a minor works certificate can then be issued to sign everything off. In terms of each end when installing an inline fan, you will need both internal and external extractor fan vents.