Citadel Layer: Dark Reaper

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Following the basecoat, I go into my first shade. For my shade, I use Guilliman Flesh Contrast Paint thinned down about 2:1 with Contrast Medium . In retrospect, I think this left the shade a bit too light and I had to hit some areas an extra time, so a 1:1 mix would also probably work. Eye Lenses – Paint the full lens in Wazdakka Red then, leaving an edge of red, paint Evil Sunz Scarlet inside. Reaper Miniatures operate out of Texas in the US and produce their own models in Metal, Resin & Plastic, their own paints, wargames, tabletop games and even have a huge yearly convention – ReaperCon. Once you have the glaze mixed, use a small brush to put just a little bit of the paint on the tip. Since the paint is so wet with thinner, if there’s too much paint on the brush it will run and we wont have the kind of control we want. Use your nail, the base of the model, or the pallet to test it a bit to make sure you have good control over the paint coming off the brush. You can highlight the rims conventionally (basecoating with Dawnstone and highlighting with Administratum Grey) or simply drybrush the whole tire with Dawnstone and call it a day.

This paint is smooth, from beginning to end. It’s smooth coming out of the bottle, smooth when you thin it with water and smooth when you apply it to a model. The above images show my attempt at base coating without primer, to show A, how smooth the end result is. and B, the opacity of this paint. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, ORC SKIN: Not only good for orcs but for moss, mold, or lichen. Great to highlight grey stone where you want to suggest there might be lichen but it is too small to paint. Also a nice color for ghoul skin! Hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If so, leave a comment or reaction below, and if you got any questions, leave them here so I can answer them for you.I take for granted the breakdown Warhammer offer with their Base, Layer, Shade, Edge, Dry, Air categories. But it’s categorisation which Reaper could seriously do with adopting. I genuinely couldn’t tell what was what. Consider that in 2019 the average person’s attention span is 8 seconds. Being flooded with a list of paints and having to wade through on your own to even categorise things isn’t just offputting, it’s painful. Paint the Red, Amber, Green traffic lights with Baal Red, Dorn Yellow and Warp Lightning, respectively. Spray a smaller highlight in the same corner with a brighter blue, such as Lothern Blue or Baharroth Blue.

More washes. I want to retain a pale look, so I washed the flesh bits with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet, then I did a couple thin coats of Druchii Violet around the eyes and a ring of Nuln Oil to give the eyes a smoky, shadowy look on her face.For the taxi, airbrush with a basic flat yellow, such as Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow (my favorite) or Phalanx Yellow (meh). The armor plates get edge highligting with Sotek Green, completing the classic Drukhari look, albeit with a more blue tint. Please note: we now use a different clear caddy for our paint sets and is different from the one shown in the image. Drazhar is a beautiful model, maybe my favorite in the entire game, and was an absolute joy to paint as well. I won’t talk about him too extensively here, since I already wrote an article for Goonhammer about some techniques I used to paint him. If you are curious though, you can read that article here . Long story short, Apothecary White and Tesseract Glow are your friends.