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Despite its popularity in the flavor industry, perfumers had been quite reluctant to introduce fragrances of cakes and praline to modern perfumery. Here is what Mark Buxton recalls in one of his interviews: Probably, the word ethyl maltol is familiar to everyone by now: it is the notorious substance that smells like cotton candy and strawberry jam. An overdose of it glorified Mugler's Angel, which, in its prime, started the big gourmand trend we have been enjoying already for 30 years! But the history of using "sugar" in perfumery began long before 1992, the year when Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chirin introduced Angel.
it was one of the first to overdose it that much. But it was in the brief apparently. Mugler wanted something to remind him of his childhood, with Barbapapa, stuff like that. But then, the accord that Olivier made, of course, that was original." There is an alcohol group in the molecule of maltol and ethyl maltol: these substances can form esters: You can see a couple of examples on the right side in the picture below. The alcohol group of maltol / ethyl maltol is important for the interaction with the "sweet" receptors, when esters lose their caramel smell and gain an alcohol-fruity nuance, which is characteristic for these compounds. It seems that perfumers have recreated all possible desserts that exist; we've smelled perfume incarnations of praline, ganache, candied fruits, panna-cotta, crème brulée, nougat, profiteroles, Pavlova cake, and even rainbow sherbet. But maybe they forgot something, and have not made your favorite dessert yet? When I trained, one of the products I fell in love with was ethyl-maltol. It is the product you need to make Angel. It is the sugar note. And all my first fragrances had ethyl-maltol. Everyone said to me, “you have this sugar note in there, very sweet, it doesn’t work. It’s kitsch, it’s bonbon, perfume is luxe and this is a gadget, forget it”, because internally no one liked ethyl-maltol. And eventually I stopped working with ethyl-maltol! Until, the right time, the right moment, Olivier Cresp made Angel, and bam! Since then every fragrance has ethyl-maltol. Furfural is a source material for synthesis of many fragrant materials. Its elder brother, 5-methyl furfural, is also used in perfumery; it has a sweetish caramel odor of burnt sugar with coffee, pastries, spices, and maple syrup nuances. Its structural isomer, 2-acetylfuran, is more balsamic and "roasted," with notes of almond, cocoa, and coffee–it is very popular as a flavor in foods and drinks. Without this compound, it is difficult to recreate the flavor and fragrance of tamarind, and in trace amounts it is important in making the scents and tastes of alcoholic beverages, cereals, tea, tobacco, and even tomatoes.Methyl cyclopentenolone is closer to a maple syrup kind of scent; it is also known as cyclotene, or maple lactone. As in the case of maltol, the replacement of methyl with ethyl allows to increase the intensity of its fragrance; ethyl cyclopentenolone (ECP), or ethyl cyclotene smells several times stronger. Just like maltols, cyclopentenolones can form fruity-flavored esters. Initially, when Givaudan introduced this compound, Levistamel was mainly used to reduce the amount of vanillin used in perfume, while preserving its overall sweetness. It was truly recognized when Maurice Roucel, a master of overdosing, put Levistamel in the center of his gourmand coffee fougère Rochas Man. At the same time another remarkable perfume, Yohji Homme, was released. At the beginning of the 1940s, maltol was produced on an industrial scale, but it was the flavor industry that first took an interest in the compound, since it turned out to be very useful in the reconstruction of a variety of flavors – from soups and ketchup (50-100 parts per million) to all kinds of confectionery (up to 3300 ppm).
The alcohol group of cyclotene can form ethers, which are also used in perfume composition. According to some reports, Alberto Morillas added a trace quantity of one super secret Firmenich captive amyl ether of ocyclotene (close to cis-jasmon by its structure) to his Mugler Cologne. It has a saline effect, along with its maple syrup and anis sweetness.Maltol has been produced under different trade marks, like for example Corps Praline. In 1962, Pfizer trademarked the name Veltol. Maltol was then obtained from kojic acid, which was produced by certain species of fungi, like Aspergillus oryzae; in Japanese these are called koji (by the way, soy sauce is also fermented with these fungi).
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