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I will always have a soft spot for Joy, but 1000 is easily my favorite. Previous posters are calling it a gender bender, and of course, to each their own! Their experiences may be different from mine. But to me, I find 1000 to be unabashedly feminine. I would love to acquire the vintage perfume in the green flacon, but fear if I don't act soon, it will only be a matter of time before it becomes out of reach. Chaldée – Patou's Huile de Chaldée sun oil had become so popular, many customers were buying it purely for its smell, therefore, Chaldée the perfume (a dry musk) was produced Plans are abandoned for 'something new'. A very millennial approach. Not all customers are Millenials. We don't all want syrupy, synthetic fruitichoulis everyday of the week. We even mourn Chanel with their insipidly weak formulations now. Jean Patou should have been incorporated into the company at the pointy end of LVMH's prestigious brands. I'm sure that was the intention at the time of the acquisition. Zanon, Johanna " La face cachée de la Lune: les ateliers de couture de la maison Jean Patou dans l’entre-deux-guerres", in Apparence(s) 7 (2017).
Jean Patou is a prestigious, historic luxury brand. "The costliest perfume in the world": Jean Patou himself already did the work for you! (ie. brand equity, market positioning). For the informed, Jean Patou stands up there with Chanel. Christian Dior was there too. Around when 'Christian Dior' rebranded to 'Dior', it adopted a mass marketing strategy. All good, but that left a gap in the LVMH prestige brand offerings. (Which seems to be partially filled by brand Exclusifs now.)Steele, Valerie, ed. (2010). The Berg companion to fashion. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic. pp.553–555. ISBN 978-1-84788-563-0.
The Fragrance industry has been fighting for decades a battle between the power of Marketing and the uniqueness of true creations. In difficult times, only great fragrances remain and among the icons of perfumery history there is Joy by Jean Patou. The original bottle, designed by French architect and artisan Louis Süe, was designed to have a simple, classical feel. [6] Awards [ edit ] It is true that - at the time (until about the early 1990's), "Joy de Patou" was the most expensive fragrance to buy (maybe not to produce though) in the world, but as the years went by, tons of other fragrances became much more expensive to buy than "Joy"... (I'm thinking here about these companies for instance , which sell their fragrances for a much more bigger prices than Patou...:Parfum de Nicolai, Comme des garçons, Montale, Amouage, Maison Martin Margiela, etc... Something I was fearing has happened. The house of Jean Patou is now dead when it comes to fragrance production.... The acquisition of the brand by LVMH was the final sign that things were coming to an end, and when they released a perfume called Joy under the Dior umbrella, it was clear that nothing good was going to happen with the original Joy, launched by Jean Patou in 1930.
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In 1925 Patou launched his perfume business with three fragrances created by Henri Alméras. [4] In 1928, Jean Patou created "Huile de Chaldée", the first sun tan lotion. We need to remember that in this beginning of the 20th century, another name was already world-wide famous: Paul Poiret. He was the ultimate reference for Couture. He was actually the first Couturier-Perfumer in history thanks to its “ Parfums de Rosine” line. The perfumes were elaborated with Rallet Laboratories in Grasse. The main perfumer was Henri Alméras. The after First World War brought tremendous financial difficulties for the Maison Paul Poiret. The future being complicated, Henri Alméras leaves Poiret and joins Jean Patou, a new couturier with great ambitions. After creating his haute couture line, Jean Patou created the perfume division helped by his brother-in-law Raymond Barbas and his first “nose” Henri Alméras. Adept of jasmine, the House has its own fields in Grasse, capital of perfume and is one of the largest consumers of this flower in the world. Historically, Jean Patou had wished to create a perfume intended for its most faithful customers, a gift to make them forget the difficult moments crossed during this dark period. He was talking about Joy. Today, this perfume has become the olfactory finery of luxury by excellence, a timeless significance of prestige and opulence. In Difficult Moments You Will Always Need Some Joy. In 1984, Jean Kerléo was responsible for the reformulation and reissue of twelve of Patou's fragrances from 1925 to 1964 in a series called "Ma Collection", including the first fragrances created for the house in 1925, the trio "Amour-Amour", "Que sais-je?" and "Adieu Sagesse". "Ma Collection" was sold in flacons modelled after the originals by Louis Süe. [9]
Joy, along with the rest of the Patou line of scents is apparently discontinued. I suppose that several factors were involved: Patou is likely, if unfairly, tarred with the “Old Lady” brush, I am sure that ingredients formerly used are now considered as safe as Asbestos flakes with plutonium dressing by the Powers That Be, and it cannot be cheap to massacre half of Grasse for the flower petals to create it. LVMH needs to hire proper marketing people and not, millennials who have no marketing qualifications and little fragrance history. There is some strange connection between a woman and flowers. Even when they are most vulnerable, and overwhelmed by this world and become furious or sad, only one bouquet of flowers, even wildflowers, will make them smile. How to describe the effect of the most perfect, most beautiful flower bouquet in the history of perfumery? What kind of emotion will it cause? Precisely the one the name itself indicates – Joy, pure and sincere, infinite joy.Is that metal exhaustion of the owners - or what? Big money offered for the brand assets to wipe them out? Kerleo stepped down in 1999 [6] appointing Jean-Michel Duriez as house perfumer. Duriez creations include "Un Amour de Patou" (1998), "Enjoy" (2003) and "Sira des Indes" (2006). Joy is a legendary perfume and timeless classic, one of the most beautiful and quintessential floral perfumes in modern perfume history. It appeared in 1929, in the post-secessionist period, at the time when no one expected such a fragrance, especially from the small fashion house Jean Patou. The great perfumes were the distinctiveness of the perfume giants, such as Coty and Guerlain, but that a creative individual in inspiring collaboration with a talented perfumers can create something that will not only equal but also beat all expectations and set standards, in a way heralded the current situation where we can expect tremendous things from tiny, but enthusiastic and talented niche brands. The Next Big Thing can no longer be found in large and luxurious perfumeries, but in a small, niche, art perfume shops that hide their magic away from public attention whose only amusement is what is trendy and what is not.
Joy was created as a reaction to the 1929 Wall Street crash, which had diminished the fortunes of Jean Patou's wealthy American clientele. Despite its elevated price and the depressed economic environment, Joy became a success and has remained Jean Patou's most famous fragrance. Patou was acquired by Procter & Gamble in 2001. [3] In 2002, Patou launched Enjoy, a contemporary take on Joy meant for younger women. The press release was ecstatic. “Grasse Rose, in both Essence and Absolute form, as well as heady Jasmine, blend with these delectable fruits [bergamot and mandarin] in a vibrant smile. Warm and creamy sandalwood embraces us in softness.” That Dior needs to hire a good copywriter is obvious, but even more so the fact that besides the name, Dior also took the main idea of Jean Patou’s Joy, rose and jasmine. What would be the result, I wondered?
What can we say about the Jean Patou’s woman? She is definitely someone that does not go unnoticed. She loves colors and shapes. She will explore all nuances depending on her mood, situation and taste. She will be elegant during the week in the city as well as over the weekend at the sea or in the countryside. She will impose her femininity and yet be comfortable in her shoes. Jean Patou was the one to introduce the “weekend suitcase”,casual and elegant clothe for a two nights stay-out. All this richness will influence the in-house perfumer to develop one of the most beautiful fragrances of all: Joy. The result is that Dior Joy is Allure Lite. The rose and jasmine are folded into a sandalwood accord reminiscent of Chanel’s fragrance. From the top notes to the drydown, Joy follows the course of Allure, but in a softer, more transparent interpretation. The mandarin peel dusted with sugar, the rose blended with the lemony jasmine, a touch of apricot and orange blossom that melt into the sandalwood and custard-like vanilla. Even the same contrast between the sweet citrus and creamy woods is maintained.
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