Waxoyl Car Underseal and Rust Protection. The Original Rustproofing for Cars by Hammerite, Rust Inhibitor and Rust Converter for Classic Car Care. Waxoyl Clear 5L Refill Can

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Dinitrol is far easier to apply than Waxoyl as it has been shown that Waxoyl can be affected by the changing weather. In a report that was carried out it showed that Waxoyl doesn’t seem to penetrate any significant amounts of rust whereas Dinitrol did fill in those gaps. To help you achieve this, we offer a full suite of rust treatment products, including: Car rust remover

We will be happy to organise an exchange for the correct goods at no extra charge to yourself, please get in touch to organise this. Faulty Items Our range of direct-to-metal paints can be applied on top of the affected area and instantly provide reliable rust-proofing for years to come. Produced by Hammerite, our car paints are available in pots or in spray cans and in a variety of popular colours. They’re perfect for DIY car-rust repairs. Car rust removal solutions from Halfords It also pinged the fuse for the lighting circuit, getting myself out of the underneath of the landy proved friutfull, in that I knew all the places that waxoil had “leaked”.

\n\t\t\tTetroseal Wax/Oil Rustproof Clear 5L

If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter. Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water. It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… For a few years now I have been using a secret additive which I add at 2% to the waxoyl to make it impact resistant. I have found that not only does this make the waxoyl abrasion resistant with no trade off in its capability to kill rust, I have found that it also prevents the waxoyl from oxidizing and disappearing over time.

I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster. Thhhhuuuumpppppppp !…grwat big snotty big dollop spewed out over the kitchen worksurface... no probs I thought, ...I’ll sort that out when I’ve finished, as I might make "a little bit more mess yet".... glad she's not in. More recently, I've used motor oil, thinned with diesel or kerosene to the point where it can be sprayed with one of those cheapo trigger-action hand sprayers, though a proper cavity sprayer would probably be better.Oils: These tend to be more penetrative but evaporate quite rapidly, meaning that the application usually has to be renewed yearly. I’ve decided to use POR15, based on lots of advice on here. I bought some last year before I had the gunge put on, but didn’t use it, seemed too much like hard work. So I’m writing this whilst having a cup of coffee, after having used it today. I followed the instructions to the letter, POR Degreaser first, followed by Etch primer, and finally the first thin coat of POR 15… looks good so far and the next coat goes on in a couple of hours. I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code. There is also no smell from this application of Dinitrol as the solvents are aromatic. When the wax and solvent vanish, it leaves only the wax. This will expand according to the temperatures.

Nowadays though theres better things available, Dinitrol is good, I used this in my Capri and so far had no rust at all in all treated areas. But I now use Bilt Hamber Dynax s50, it is superb stuff, and again ive not had any rust in treated areas. Waxoyl and Ziebart both definatly work. My MK2 Granada had waxoyl done from new and its survived very well in places it should have rotted away. The sills, chassis, doors etc are all still in good solid original condition after nearly 30 years and 200K miles! The car has needed extensive welding but only in places the original Ford coatings have failed! Its certainly done the job as im sure the car wouldnt be around today had it not been treated. It can be a pain though when welding as it melts in the heat and catches fire easily! Removing dripping clothes I entered house in “minimal Clothes” to resolve fuse prob, when Lights went on I saw the cat… later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?"This is easy to do and costs next to nothing. The oil doesn't solidify so its self repairing, and highly penetrative.

Long term, it forms a semi-solid skin of wax (demi-semi-solid in average Scottish temperatures) under which rust continues. True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid. Waxoyl is an oil and water mix and therefore it will never cure. So hot days it will continue to drip out of any of the holes it was applied to on your vehicle. It will also give out odour from the oil.