Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Rhinox Hide

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Transfers were added to the model. I started with a coat of ‘Ardcoat to seal the paint job and to create a smooth surface for the transfer to cling on. Once in place and completely dry, I apply several coats of Microsol, which softens the transfer and makes it snuggle even to curved surfaces such as shoulder pads. The red tactical arrow is based on a white arrow from the Ultramarines transfer sheet, painted over with Blood Red [ Evil Sunz Scarlet] once sealed in place. The numbers come from the Dark Angels section from the Dark Imperium transfer sheet. Finally, I sprayed the whole model with a couple of thin coats of satin varnish ( Munitorum Varnish works great for this).

Eye lenses – paint the full lens in Kantor Blue, then leaving an edge of blue, paint Blue Horror inside. The next step is entirely optional, and is easiest to complete if you’re using an airbrush. (though you can also glaze it)Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html Liked this guide and want to see more? Have questions about what products are used? Or maybe there’s a guide you’d like to see us make? HairsprayAs long as your varnish has dried (give it about 30 minutes at least), you’re safe to move on to applying a coat of hairspray. Ask your significant other for their cheapest can of hairspray (or go buy the cheapest one you can find), as the cheaper stuff is the most water-soluble. We will be taking advantage of that quality shortly. The Army Painter’s answer to Games Workshop’s Contrast paints is Speedpaint. Speedpaint Medium is quite similar to Contrast Medium, maybe minimally thinner and not quite as milky in colour.

Released as a replacement for Scorched Brown during the last major paint range shake up. It is actually quite a bit darker of a brown than its predecessor, and slightly less red. Unlike the change from Devlan Mud to Agrax Earthshade, this is actually a boon. Next up, we’re going to paint the face. If you’re using an airbrush, you’ll need to make sure all the areas of the figure you don’t want to get flesh colours on are covered up. Overall I’m happy. They are a little messier than my normal minis mostly because I was pushing to get them done. However even if I slow down it won’t take too long and is easily replicated! If needed, re-establish the basecoat on areas that need it. Then start adding Silver RLM01 Metallic to the base mix and add some highlights.Gradually add Wraithbone to the mix, highlighting smaller and smaller areas. You should eventually be adding highlights of pure Wraithbone . Paint the red areas with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. Drybrush the cloth with VGC Blue Grey. Those hazard stripes are not entirely straight. They’re freehanded, and you can see if you look closely that they are neither parallel nor evenly spaced. That’s fine, actually, because the miniature has so much visual confusion from the heavy weathering that the lines are broken and your mind barely notices it. The transfers are especially essential to this formulae – they provide such pops of visual interest that they command the eye to focus on them and not the imperfections on the hazard stripes.

Fire Dragon Bright, at the very sharpest corner of the inner edges of the eyes, lowest corner of a round lens Three armies that potentially benefit from the usage of Rhinox Hide in their miniature painting schemes are as follows:

Mix a drop of Ultramarine’s blue in with 3 or 4 drops of Duraluminium. We don’t want the metal areas to look obviously blue, but we want a slight blue tint to it so that the metal areas are in the cool spectrum. As with the white areas above, this will add more contrast. The mix should not look to be blue, just ca colder metal colour in general. Using a small piece of sponge dab on Rhinox Hide to form a pattern of random dots over the armour panels. Similar to drybrushing, you want to remove almost all the paint from the sponge before dabbing on the mini. Once the paint from the previous layer has dried, you’ll need to apply a slightly more selective highlight of Yriel Yellow. But what about the reactivation issue? As I found out in my Speedpaint review, dried Speedpaints bleed through when you paint over them with acrylic paint. Does thinning with Speedpaint Medium have the same effect? We’ll find out. Focus on areas around the edges of armour panels, as well as hands and fingers. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 11 – Edge Highlighting, Part 2

I used to wash the fatigues with Agrax Earthshade on my earlier models, but have moved over to "Marine Juice" as I find using it easier and prefer the result. In fact, "Marine Juice" retains so much of the base colour, you can probably just skip the Zandri Dust and Karak Stone highlight, if you wanted to save time. Green Armour Focus the contrast paint into those recesses on Fafnir Rann’s hair to build up a good shade. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 19 – Gloss Varnish As with earlier stages, if you make a mistake, just correct it with some Ushabti Bone. Step 5 – Glaze The Armour Wash armor and weapons with a 3:1 mix of Army Painter Strong Tone and Vallejo Sepia Ink (any brown ink will do) The Warhammer 40,000 action figures from McFarlane Toys, some of which we previewed last year , are a great way to enjoy a piece of your favourite hobby at a much larger scale than regular miniatures. Due to their size, they’re also a perfect canvas for really flexing your painting skills, just like Louise Sugden did with her Space Marine. Once we’d seen the fantastic job she did, we couldn’t help but ask for a few words about how she went about it.

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And finally edge highlighted very sparingly with (again the name has worn off, but I think its aluminum.) Rhinox Hide can be used to create a coherent and visually appealing miniature army when painting armies such as the Space Wolves, Chaos Space Marines, or Tyranids. What armies can you paint with Rhinox Hide? You’ll need to thin the Snakebite Leather with Contrast Medium rather than water or else the paint may end up looking a little bit blotchy. Now mix your Nurgling Green with an equal amount of Wraithbone and add specular highlights to corners, plus the centre of the previous stages highlights. Lastly, it’s time to highlight all the metals. This is the longest part of the process, but the one that makes all those details pop and brings the scheme together. I went with Stormhost Silver, as I wanted to maximize the contrast and definition of these models. Normally I’d do some weathering too, but these models are already so busy that adding scratches and such just seems like it would be too much.