Games Workshop Citadel Base: Averland Sunset

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On larger eagles I reestablish the yellow with Averland, then do a very careful edge highlight of Phalanx Yellow: Pet love extends beyond the bounds of Games Workshop. Knight Models get in on the action in a whole bunch of ways, from Harley’s hyenas to the giant goddamn demon that Damien Wayne drags around. But none more majestic then the owls that the Court of Owls deploy. Owl. Credit: Lupe

My headcanon is that the Rainbow Warriors organize themselves into 7 Battleline companies and 7 Reserve companies, each consisting of 7 squads named after the ROYGBIV colors of the rainbow. This is known as the Double Rainbow. The companies do not act as single entities, instead their squads are parceled out to the various strike forces of the Rainbow Warriors. The final model is one I’m very happy with, and that I think very effectively matches up with the 2nd edition codex style. Take care to apply this only to those areas that would be darkest. Here, all you’re wanting to do is reinforce those shadowy areas – not re-paint whole sections of the figure. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 5 – Masking Next is Averland Sunset. I usually aim to be just within the boarders of the bump, then not to totally overlap the green triangle on the forehead. Released in late 1998 shortly before 3rd edition launched, the metal Chaos Cultists are a bit of a rarity among GW metal models. In their older paint schemes their flesh had a darker, grey and slightly purple tone. I’ve tried to replicate this by basecoating with Grey Seer and then painting the skin with Apothecary White and then highlight with Reaper Ghost White. The robes are painted with Naggaroth Night and highlighted with a mix of Xereus Purple and Reaper Pure White.

Crab-Stuffed Mushrooms’ Method

I want to give this some depth, so I use Celestra Grey to add highlight lines to the raised parts – in this case, the light is coming from directly above the star. Once I’m done with this, I’ll use Nuln Oil to darken the insides of the star, and I’ll add a couple dots of lighter grey to make rivets on the arrowheads. Any regular paintbrushes with sharp tips for painting base layers. (We use an Artis Opus Series S #3 for everything, except the finest details where a Series M #0 is used).

Guilliman Blue in the runic design (as this color is no longer available, you could make a custom glaze using a 2:1 mix of Lahmian Medium and any blue) Since Sir Chunks was getting dings and scrapes applied over the whole model, it would’ve looked pretty weird if the freehand escaped similar harm, so I threw in some extra scrapes over the top, at which point… job done. Now I know that yellow is a pain. I've found numerous good YT videos on the topic, and particularly liked Darren Latham's video, here. Highlight the face masks and squad markings with Ulthuan Grey (Optional: Add a final highlight of White Scar.Now we arrive at the crucial “grime up” step that’s so necessary for creating that grimdarky finish on the miniature. This stage takes all the effort out of washing and/or shading your models. and yes, it will look much worse here before it looks better. Nuln Oil: This is a dark, oily wash that can be used to add shadow and depth to your models. It can be applied over Averland Sunset to create a more realistic, weathered look, or to highlight the details of your models. Time for some final details. I paint the gun aquila with Averland Sunset, wash it with Reikland Fleshshade, and highlight with Averland and Flash Gitz Yellow. The gun gets edge highlighted with Mechanicus Standard Grey. And the most important highlights also happen here – I edge highlight the metal parts of the model with Runefang Steel, which really makes them stand out. Next, we’re going to paint all the white areas on the miniature with Bright Warm Grey from Pro Acryl.