Solar Panel Connectors 10AWG Compatible with MC4 Connecter to SAE Adapter PV Extension Cable Wire for RV Caravan Solar Panels Battery Charger kit with Two SAE to SAE Polarity Reverse Adapters

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But I also prefer 200 watts to anything smaller because in any conditions the larger wattage will charge quicker (twice as fast as a 100 watt system). Storage of both the actual electrical connections, female and male types, are subject to corrosion and soiling. The other consideration is the gradual loosening up of the pinch action as they are connected and disconnected repeatedly. Do you have one or more high-performance solar modules and would you like to connect them to your solar controller as easily as possible?

One type accepts two male MC4 connectors on the input side and has a male MC4 connector for its output.I've also read that energy loss is less a function of the connectors and more about distance and gauge of wire.

I cut off the ends of an heavy duty extension cord --- the female end, I attached that to the twistlock which goes to the camper.You need to keep the polarities straight with the SAEs but other than that I find them excellent, simple and have had no problems at all. If you connect two of them in parallel, your total amps would be 16 amps Imp and the voltage would remain at 18 volts Vmp. This article addresses MC4 connectors, but the same principles apply to other connectors such as Amphenol H4, Tyco, and SMK.

Easy to use, charge your solar with the adapter cable and for easily connecting to RV solar panels, suitable for most the solar panel kit. If moving sites occurs on an almost daily basis, this is something that will require attention to assure optimum efficiency of the charging system.Since I can easily swap the polarity when installing this is not a big issue but I will have to remember the connector/polarity of the cables will be reversed. If the pinch is insufficient, gentle compression on the female receiving component will offer assurance of a good connection. I don't want to use a polarity adapter at the hub to switch, too complicated and another failure point.

For the record, I switched everything over to SAE connectors to avoid the bad connections from "cigarette lighter" type plugs which suck. Finally, to prevent sea air and rain from corroding the electrical business ends, a compatible "grease" could be applied that wouldn't attack the rubber or plastic body of the connector but would keep the metal protected. Yep, they're occasionally a bit finicky to get apart (and my fingers are definitely getting old) but not enough to make me wish I has something different. If you're asking this question, you've probably noticed that most modern high power solar modules are manufactured with wire leads that have latching connectors on the ends. Unfortunately I don't think there is ever a perfect answer since it's impossible to know the exact future conditions you will find yourself in.

Being a novice at setting up a solar system, I had many questions along the way, and the team at Sun Powered Yachts were always there to answers my questions and provide support. Nobody wants to purchase an expensive cable and later find out the length is too short after it's been cut. Once you've got the two modules connected in series, you need to use MC4 cables to bring that power to wherever your electrical equipment is located (usually a circuit breaker and a solar charge controller). You can then strip back the insulation from the cut ends and terminate them to a bus bar or circuit breakers. Read more about the condition New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable).