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Given a suitable editing pre-set, it would give a very good imitation of a classic film rangefinder optic, offering plenty of detail without the biting contrast of a modern lens. It soon becomes apparent why 35mm lenses were so well regarded on 35mm cameras, and certainly, the 23mm recaptures this versatility in terms of its APS-C crop format field of view. Wide open for bokeh detail shots, environmental portraits it was great - but it was rubbish for landscapes at f/8, with a sharp center, sharp edges and corners, and a fuzzy midfield donut. Visit our Competitions Forum, where you'll find our monthly competition and other external competitions to enter.
When I get what I want in focus it is easy to rotate the ring slightly by accident, like when removing hand from the lens or even sneezing. The kit lens from either Lumix or Zuiko is excellent at wide to mid range - it only falls off in resolution near the 40mm zone. But focusing is probably misaligned in some way and the distance scale is off — infinity is around 6 meters mark on the distance scale. The benefits of prime lenses are being rediscovered, that is, the simplification of the shooting process that means there is nothing to interfere with the interaction between photographer and subject. Not an existing owner of the Fuji 23mm f2, who won't trade autofocus and exemplary optical performance.The Meike brand (same folks from China who have been making camera accessories) Have a group of small, manual focus APS-C lenses in E mount-2. I assume the discrepancy is the result of the same lens being produced for a variety of sensor formats. I'm still trying to decide whether focus peaking is the best way to go or just eyeball it when focusing (mainly because I have used peaking so little). I read a review of the Pergear that made me think it was worth trying - but I ended up just getting the Fuji 23/2 instead, and a Meike 28/2. The main problem here is that focus peaking highlight looks quite similar to the noise in the viewfinder.
I haven't really "tested" the bokeh, mainly because that's pretty low on my considerations in lens performance, but what I've seen through the finder has been smooth, with the 12 blade aperture providing those round blobs so many people adore, even when this lens is wide open. Second generation has traditional ring placement — aperture ring close to body, focusing ring close to front of the lens. There is no OIS (Optical Image Stabilisation) but there is in-body stabilisation in several Fuji bodies.I have one of those cheap Fujian lenses and a Canon FD 50mm and it might take a few seconds to focus but it's still pretty easy.
Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. I use focus peaking with highlight or “standard” focus peaking (zooming) without any highlighting and still can’t decide which one is better. I also think the aperture markings are off, based on the shutter speeds and the size of opening (though magnification from front element may distort my eyes).At this point I am thinking about the 25mm to in some ways replicate the 23 on my X100 and possibly the 7. They are very soft wide open with vignetting and progressively get better to F8 - where it's pretty much gone. I was just wondering if this lens would be suitable for digitizing 35mm film negatives with an APS-C camera? Aperture ring on Hengyijia is a little bit worse — from f/2 to f/8 it’s a little looser and from f/1.
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