Agfa Photo 6A4360 APX Pan 400 135/36 Film

Product Information

But if you’re a beginner to film processing, I’d absolutely recommend starting with any of the films I’ve mentioned previously and not this one, as you’ll have an easier time of it. With that disclaimer out of the way, let’s talk about this film. PAST BYLINES: Gear Patrol, PC Mag, Geek.com, Digital Photo Pro, Resource Magazine, Yahoo! News, Yahoo! Finance, IGN, PDN, and others. The original Kentmere 400 film box branding said “Kentmere 400” on the side (white box and cassette label). The new branding reads “Pan 400” on one side and it has a pink-purple box design. (“Kentmere” is written on the other side). If Kentmere 400 becomes known as Pan 400 it is very easy to confuse this film with the Ilford Pan 400. They are different film from my own testing but no wonder people get confused! I thought I would mention it. AGFA Photo APX 400 vs Kentmere 400 The next step was the development. There are not yet many development times for the new APX 100 from AgfaPhoto. Also a data sheet with development times does not exist to my knowledge.

In fact, this is the one Ansel Adams himself recommended for those learning the zone system. It has a long shelf life and it’s cheap to use as one-shot. It’s not great for pushing, but we’re not doing any of that for this test. At box speeds, I feel like it’s a strong choice for most of these films. For many of these films, people will argue that other developers would be better to start out with. I’m not disagreeing with that, but again, I had to start somewhere and I certainly can’t test all of them. TMax and Delta 400 were very slightly sharper than the “traditional-chemistry” films, resolving extremely fine detail like distant tree branches or clothing threads just a tad better than the others. They had grain that was extremely fine, but also very visible. But assuming you’re ok with my own set of criteria, what you’re going to want to do first is to go through each of these criteria and rate how important each one is to you personally on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being not important at all and 5 being extremely important. Leica M10 vs Leica M9 vs Fujifilm S5 Pro - A Comparison of Digital Rendering with Vintage and Modern Lenses Fourth, the comparison reinforced my bias against Agfa APX 400 - which I believe is overly sanitized (albeit the most contemporary) in image reproduction. In my opinion, the rendering of APX 400 is rather restrained. That is to say, the grain structure is flat, the weighting between highlights, shadows, and midtones is even, and the perception of sharpness is muted. As a result, APX 400 is rather digital-like in impression. That said, being flat does make APX 400 easier to manipulate in post - which makes it exceptionally contemporary.Agfa is a German brand best known for making film, photographic paper and cameras. It was established in 1867 in Berlin. Its name is derived from 'Actien-Gesellschaft für Anilin-Fabrication” (Corporation for Aniline Production) which was abbreviated down to AGFA in 1867. Agfa focused on developing chemicals and films for the photographic industry but began as a colour dye factory, producing photographic chemicals and film products until 1925 when they merged with a number of other German chemical manufacturers (including BASF and Bayer) to form the giant conglomerate IG Farben. They later absorbed Bayer’s Rietzschel camera factory in Munich at this time and began producing cameras. Now I know you’re probably anxious to dive into the actual photos. But first I’d love to share with you a tool I built to help myself to determine which film I want to commit to, long term, for myself. If this can also help you, then I’m happy to share it.

Other than using it for dealing with harsh light, RPX’s lower contrast and nicer tonality is worth enjoying on its own. There has been a trend in the past few years with higher contrast and more dramatic b&w films such as TMax 3200, JCH Streetpan and the pushing of films to be even more impactful, so it is nice to enjoy the more subtle, tonal films like RPX, Bergger, BWXX and the like. While we like our highlights and shadows as much as the next photographer, there is a lot to say about an extended range of grays in an image. Camera Leica M3 Lens 7Artisans 50mm f1.1 Film Agfa APX 400 EI400 Development Kodak HC-110; Dilution B; 8:00+ minutes Scanner Reflecta ProScan 10T Islands Comparing Image Stabilization and Fast Lenses - Nikon F6 + 28mm f/1.4E and Canon 1v + 28mm f/2.8 IS Say you're out shooting; you miss-meter and underexpose your shot a stop. Then you unknowingly use a bad developer/film combination and loose another stop. Gets worse...while your developing your film you mis-measure your Rodinal by what seems like a drop; suddenly you're only using 2.5 mls. Agfa insists that little Rodinal will not work as the developer is exhausted before the process is complete. So the mis-measurement causes another stop or so loss in speed You�re three stops down, your prints are not going to love you...as a mater of fact they are going to be quite disappointing.

The first t-grain film we’ll discuss is Kodak T-MAX and Lady Gray (which is the same film). This film is very linear, tonally. It has very fine grain. The T-grain emulsion, as I mentioned, high sharpness and very high-edged detail. T-MAX is a great choice if you don’t like grain. The T-MAX base has a pink tint to it. Like Rollei Retro, T-MAX is also extremely curly upon drying but is also currently fairly affordable at .15 per frame.We have shown a couple of different Rollei films before in the WonderBox, including Rollei Infrared and Rollei Ortho 25. Rollei RPX 400 is a gorgeous emulsion available in 35mm and 120. It is a 400 ISO film that can be pushed up to 1600. It dries very flat, which is ideal for home developers and home scanners! So I’ve given a lot of disclaimers so far, and I want to add yet one more, but this is probably the most important disclaimer. Except in the case of one film (which we’ll get to later), I used the same developer: Kodak HC 110. It seems safe to assume that Harmon (maker of Kentmere and Ilford films) does the coating/finishing of this film, but I wouldn’t go so far as to say that this emulsion is simply Kentmere or HP5 as many claim. Regardless, this film, to me, is surprisingly high quality for one so cheap. It has low contrast with good latitude (define latitude), and I’d say a medium to fine grain. It dries flat and is great for scanning. Before Agfa stopped production in Germany, enormous quantities of the APX 100 were still produced. This was sold as Rollei Retro 100 and under the AgfaPhoto brand (AgfaPhoto APX 100). Now the leftovers are probably used up, nevertheless it will pass on the APX 100 of AgfaPhoto, but just no longer from Agfa Leverkusen production.

Canon 5D Mark IV + 24-70mm f/2.8 vs Leica SL + 24-90mm f/2.8-4 - Battle of the Prosumer Mid-Zoom Kit The next two films we’ll be discussing are exciting to me since they are both new films. With the last few decades seeing film after film company shutters its windows, it really is encouraging to see two new films come out in the same year. Phew! That was a lot of work. So with the blind test out of the way, now comes the big reveal. Here are the film names associated to their letters: Here’s an example based on a rough estimate between Agfa APX 400 and Kodak Tri-X 400: Agfa APX 400 Kodak Tri-X 400 The TTArtisan Light Meter is a small average light meter that slips into the camera’s shoe. Since Bronica hasn’t one, I have attached neodymium magnets on the camera and the light meter, magnets form a sturdy connection and I can remove and reattach the light meter easily. Metering is easy and fast, you just press the only button, it takes the reading and keeps it, so you can afterwards see all the combinations of speed/ aperture that make for a proper exposure. All the photos I took with it came out as well metered.Fact is, we don't even know for certain about every minor change made to our favorite films, papers and chemistry because the makers don't notify us. Generally we find out when the grapevine starts buzzing about different results, which leads to methodical tests that either confirm or disprove the rumors. Like Kentmere, Ilford HP5+ is a product of the Harman technology company. It is a lower contrast film. It has good shadow detail and well-separated mid-tones with sharp grain. Although the contrast is low, there is a great deal of latitude in this film, which makes it great for pushing or flavoring the curves and contrast to taste, after scanning. Selling for about 14 cents per frame, currently, it might be less sharp than some films, but it will provide predictable and reproducible results. Like Kentmere, there is a bit more bounce to this film after drying. As a side note, I’ve found HP5+ fans to be some of the most loyal and enthusiastic in the community, more so, than perhaps, any of the other films that I’m talking about. Keeping the above information in mind helps us to see why things can sometimes go all to hell...and for what seems to be no explainable reason.