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Spyderco Knife Sharpener Tri-angle Sharpmaker Used to Sharpen Hunting Knives & Self Sharpening Knife by Using Ceramic Knife Sharpening Stone

£20.995£41.99Clearance
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So why are those holes the shape they are? It’s all very clever actually. The Tri-Angle Sharpmaker, comes with …. yes, tri-angular stones. The stones also have a groove in them for hooks and other pointed objects. Irrespective of which you buy do heed the warnings that come with the rods. Use absolute minimal pressure so you don't dislodge the diamond or CBN particulars. :eek:

All I can add is practice on some cheap paring knives or similar till you get a feel and develop a sound technique. Here we are, fully assembled with ‘stage one’ sharpening (the coarsest arrangement) and on the 40 degree inclusive angle. But, one thing to be aware of when using "your" deburring method (= a very shallow angle): If one likes to keep the blade pretty and shiny, it is important not to go too shallow, cause then one could scratch up the side of the blade a bit when deburring. I totally don´t mind that, I like knives that look and are used, but if one wants to avoid scratches: Do as Vivi said :Choose a very shallow angle, but not SO shallow that you might hit the spine / side of the blade). While I wouldn’t call myself a knife sharpening professional, I can certainly keep a blade sharp, and I have tried a number of different sharpening kits over the years.

Spyderco Sharpmaker Review – Final Thoughts

Practice being consistent. Take your time it’s not a race. Understand what a burr is. With a little bit of practice honestly just a few knives your edge will look like it was done on a guided system. The rods themselves are ceramic. The main things to watch out for with ceramic sharpening stones is to be careful not to drop them as they are brittle and can shatter, and that you will need periodically clean them with Ajax or a similar powdered abrasive cleaner. Ceramic is porous and you will see the rods fill up with tiny metal shavings. Once they fill up they must be cleaned out or the rods won’t work as efficiently. The good news is that the rods are triangular so you can rotate them around and get plenty of use in between cleanings. The other nice thing about triangular rods is that you can even sharpen recurved edges if you use the corners of the stones.

Sharpening is not a race. Take your time and just be consistent. Even if the angle is off by a little bit you can still finish with a nice sharp hair popping edge. There is no better system out there but you have to buy the Diamond rods for repair and rebeveling or the CBN. Carbide size and hardness is also significant when it comes to grinding and sharpening knives. If the abrasive is softer than the carbide the abrasive is not able to abrade the carbide. Notably, aluminum oxide (Alumina), the most common abrasive, is softer than VC, NbC, and WC. However, if the abrasive size is larger than the carbide size then the abrasive is able to pull out the steel and the carbides together so that the carbide hardness isn’t as important.... So grinding and sharpening with coarse grits are generally effective with vanadium-alloyed powder metallurgy steels even if the abrasive is softer. At finer grits the hardness of the carbide becomes more important and polishing vanadium-containing steels can be challenging because aluminum oxide is too soft. Silicon carbide has a similar hardness to those hard carbides but is not clearly harder, and in general silicon carbide is not as good at cutting steel as aluminum oxide. CBN and diamond are significantly harder than any of the carbides so they are generally better at least in terms of grinding and polishing high wear resistance steels with hard carbides." I have a Nikon microscope with variable power and several eyepieces that gives 10x-80x magnification. This is not the fingernail or finger print test.There are a ton of Sharpmaker videos up on YouTube and here’s a decent one showing how to use the Sharpmaker: OK, that's about as best as I can explain it and I hope I haven't confused you. Maybe one of the other members will further clarify things for you. Either way ask all the questions you need. The only stupid question is the one not asked. :) The video is a good starting ground but is far too tame. You need to be able to evaluate where the edge truly is, this will only come with both time and practice.

He uses the 40 degree setting: As you wrote, and as I experienced with my Delica CE and now Endela SE, the 30 degree setting is the way to go if you want to maintain the factory edge (and not create some 40 degree microbevel) at least on a Spyderco SE knife Probably not necessary for every user, but the ultra fine rods aren't very expensive and do produce an even finer degree of sharpness and can yield a polished edge.Get a decent 10x loupe. This along with a Sharpie will teach you a lot about what's going on while sharpening.

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