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The Barons of the Cinque Ports, a historic group of representatives of 14 coastal towns in South East England, will also attend the ceremony, as will a member of the Walker Trustees - the Episcopal Bishop of Edinburgh, who previously performed the role of Usher of the White Rod.
The fashion for Chinoiserie decoration on contemporary silver extended to toilet services and vessels used in the service of wine. The toilet service from Sizergh Castle, circa 1680, and the Basingstoke monteith racing trophy (1688/9), used for serving punch and chilling wine glasses (fig. 3 ), are both chased with Chinoiserie and displayed in the V&A's Whiteley Silver Galleries. (4) Although the James II Coronation Cup is currently displayed in the V&A's New Acquisitions Gallery it will return to the Whiteley Silver Galleries for display with the coronation bells in 2010. It is hoped that in due course, a small touring exhibition of Coronation silver may be arranged, including this exciting new acquisition, to be shown in museums in the Cinque Ports of Dover, Hastings and Sandwich. Endnotes Here are the do’s and don’ts of wearing a waistcoat, plus a range of superb options. DO wear it as part of a three-piece suitThis bell is also illustrated in Clayton, Michael. The Collector's Dictionary of the Silver and Gold of Great Britain and North America. London, 1971: 27, fig.33b. Francis Sandford (1630-1694), Lancaster Herald, was appointed by James II to publish an illustrated account of his coronation. 'The history of the coronation of the most high, most mighty, and most excellent monarch James II, etc., and of his Royal Consort Queen Mary: solemnized at Westminster, 23 April 1685: with an exact account of the several preparations, their majesties most splendid processions, and magnificent feast at Westminster Hall' , was published in 1687 with engravings by S. Moore of the procession. These show the canopies held over the King (fig. 4) and Queen (fig. 5 ), supported by the Barons of the Cinque Ports. (12) Figure 4 - Engraving Showing the Canopy Held Over James II from Francis Sandford, The History of the Coronation of James II, London, 1687. V&A: National Art Library
In addition, those chosen to take on the roles proved that they are the established office holders, descendants of a relevant family or relevant owners of land to perform the task. Although the cup and cover are typical for the form at this date, and the armorials and inscription are standard for the 1680s, the 'Chinoiserie' flat chased decoration of figures supporting the canopy is of particular significance. Further research may demonstrate that the canopies used at James II's Coronation were of'cloth of gold' woven in China. Increased interest in Chinoiserie was inspired by the publication of recent travels in China by Johannes Nieuhof (1618-1672). His account of 'An Embassy from the East-India Company of the United Province, to the Grand Tartar Cham, Emperour of China 1665' , was first translated into English in 1669. (3) Steeped in British sartorial tradition, morning suits are the most stately of formal attire for men, synonymous with weddings and events like Royal Ascot. There’s a sense of solemnity to a morning suit – that majestic sweep of the tails, the waistcoat beneath (never with the bottom right button buttoned up). Wearing one makes an impact in a way a lounge suit never can. It was only right that they’d make a grand appearance at the Coronation.Less dad at a party, more ex-primary school teacher with an ankle monitor. Avoid. DO opt for a knitted waistcoat Of course, there was only one man standing out in full ceremonial splendour on the day, but in a mark of respect for the momentous occasion, the male guests watching King Charles III’s Coronation put their best feet (and suits) forward too.
The caption to the engraving in Sandford's publication reads, 'A canopy of Cloth of Gold, like that of the Kings, to be born over the QUEEN by Eight Barons of the Cinque-Ports with Four Silver Bells gilt hanging at the Corners. It was born by 16 Barons of the Cinque Ports there being 32 in all'. I am grateful to Harry Williams-Bulkeley for bringing this to my attention. Marked by Francis Garthorne, it was subsequently in the Mulliner Collection and the Percival Davis Griffiths Collection and shown in the Park Lane Exhibition, 1929, no.55. It will be auctioned in London, by Christie's, on 20 November 2009 (lot 40)This Silver Bowl was presented to the Corporation of Hasting (ye premier Cinque Port.) by ye Gentlemen whose Names are hereon Inscribed who had ye Honour to be unanimously Elected ye Barons of ye said Town to support ye Canopy over their sacred Royall Majesties King George ye 2nd and Queen Caroline at ye Solemnity of their Inauguration at Westminster the Eleventh day of October 1727. And ye same was made out of their Shares and dividend of the Silver Staves &c belonging to the said Canopy. (10) The Dean and Chapter of the Collegiate Church of St Peter will hold the ceremony and instruct the monarch in the forms, rites and ceremonies. All claims were considered by the Coronation Claims Office, within the Cabinet Office, which took advice from senior legal, ceremonial and ecclesiastical experts. Two of the barons, members of the same family, Cresheld and Gawden Draper, combined their share - probably one stave mount and one bell - which were melted down to make this commemorative cup and cover. As the combined weights of one mount and one bell were just under 36 ounces, and the cup and cover weighs just over 16 ounces, it is possible that two cups were made, one for each member of the family who attended the coronation. However, only one is known today. King Charles is studious in his approach to his wardrobe, and that sentiment carried through into how the men lining up in Westminster Abbey interpreted the expansive dress code. “National dress, morning coats or lounge suits” was the official line, the latter a rather antiquated (but entirely correct) way to describe what you or I know as the standard corporate suit, and while some opted for this less formal approach, the majority of men favoured the full majesty of morning dress.
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