Fixman 566783 Chain Plate Electro Galvanised Staple 50 mm x 50 mm

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If done scruffy, count the miles until you notice the moisture somewhere behind your nice saloon veneers. Out of two bore holes I could shell a lot of dark pieces of rotten wood, vacuuming everything thoroughly I asserted that the core around the holes with a radius of up to 7 centimeters is virtually gone. At first: Where silicone once was something else wouldn´t adhere unless the surface is sanded properly. when the assembly is dis-assembled, I would consider non destructive testing of the chainplate itself.

When he came to look at them he decided the best repair was to inject acetone along the inside of the holes. Unless the middle layer isn´t made of foam but of Balsa wood instead there´s a danger of the wood to simply rot. But to ascertain a true fix, pull the chain plate and probe the inside of the holes with an ice pick.years of being out on salty waters, exposed to constant strain and forces by the shrouds, waves and ups and downs of temperatures do leave their marks on every material. Even though, I consider myself a novice in sailing, but I know for sure that there are many of you out there that have so much experience in sailboat structure, and I will wait patiently for your feedback.

And having water coming down the chain plates, having seen some of the bolts covered in silicone I had the impression that maybe some of the moisture did as well creep into the wooden core of the sandwich-construction. Number 1, there is a good chance of crevice corrosion on some bolts and definitely where the chain plate passes through the deck.Trying hard to remove the old silicone on one instance I took out a huge piece of an even older provisional filling of the gone Balsa core. One end of the chainplate is normally fastened to a turnbuckle which is connected to the shroud or stay, whereas the remainder of the chainplate normally has multiple holes that are bolted to the hull, or the chains. But if that is the case then it might be possible to pull out the rotten piece forward, into the cupboard, having cut through the glass tabbing. As a yachtmaster you should pay close attention to seal your chain plates both on the roof of your cabin as well as in the duct itself and finally down inside in the cabin itself. More bad news, sorry, but I'm thinking that chainplate goes through the whole bulkheaed, not just the portion outboard of the pin rail.

Benz is right, you need to get someone who knows what they're looking at to tell you what needs to be done, and then, how to do it safely. PS: Best advice, higher a rigger (no dog in the fight) they are very familiar with substructures to the rigging, and can give you some sound advice on what direction to take for proper repairs. The material sandwiched in the hull tabbing and down inside the cabinetry is what supports the rigging through the chain plate. Finally I´ve found most of the Balsa core intact and dry but eventually three holes have been severely attacked by the moisture.

Again, I have the same situation , leaks at the chainplates, shifting of the plates both at the bulkhead and deck! After putting some 3 hours of work into this first step of working on the chain plates of my sailing yacht I concluded work and sat down to think of the next steps to go in this part of the refit program.

As I could see after removing of the wooden cover and the faux leather at least two of the shrouds did get leaky over time allowing small amounts of water penetrate the cabin. The boat has leaked water through some ports, and the through the chain plate area, which holds the standing rigging of the mast. So like a dentist with his hellish instruments I was probing through the screw-holes into the core of the beams.As a sailing yacht is sailing, different forces are applied to the whole system of standing rigging all the time. I decided to have a layer or two of Pre-Kote paint applied to the beams later for two reasons: First is to seal off the pure GRP-surface from potential future drops of leaking moisture coming over the chain plates into the inside, a second one is to have a clean start and a new indicator if – in some years to come – I do check the chain plates again and will thus be able to quickly distinguish new leaks from the old ones. Rot spores travel with water migration, you may think you got it all and 6 months to a year you have rot forming again.