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would rise or drop 8 degrees if the steer tube were perpendicular. This would rise a little more than the 84/6 if in the "flipped up" position, and would be a little lower in the flipped down position. In contrast, a short stem is usually the best option for competitive road riders. Handling is more compliant and the rider sits in a more aggressive and aerodynamic position. A short stem requires more precise movements, which can feel twitchy to inexperienced riders. Hybrid Stem length has a big impact on the overall fit and ride of your bike. David Caudery / Immediate Media If you are a regular rider, you may appreciate a neutral position with a slight rise in stem. Around 6 to 7 degrees of stem rise and a stem length that complements your position would suit you the best. Cross-country and leisure oriented mountain bikers are more concerned with fit than handling when it comes to stem length. Competitive cross-country racers generally have stems with a negative angle or drop whereas recreational riders commonly have stems with a slight rise. Comfort and Cruisers
Slowpoke wrote:I am trying to understand how to interpet the angle of a handlebar stem, and have a hard time with geometry.When we talk about stem standards here, we’re primarily talking about compatibility with the streerer tube on your bike (measured in inches), but also the handlebar clamp (measured in millimetres). The stem rise or the stem angle is basically the rise between handlebars and stem. It is usually measured in degrees. Stem rise affects the bike positioning and your reach to the handlebars. The higher degree of rise, the more upright your position will be. Alternatively, an inverted stem rise lowers the handlebar’s height in relation to the ground and keeps you in a lower position. Don’t forget that you can also probably raise and lower your stem by moving the spacers around on the fork steerer. Often all it takes is to swap a 10mm spacer from being under the stem to being over the stem to make all the difference you need. In other words, for example, the following stem specs that you might see are equivalent, from lowest to highest rise (and drop):
The main standards you’ll find for bike stems are summarised below. As ever, more exist – and some bikes, such as the Canyon Aeroad CFR, use a proprietary system – but this captures the majority of common options on the market. 1 1/8in steerer, 31.8mm bar clamp A lot of positioning and responsiveness depends on the length of the stem. While road riders choose their stem length based on bike-fit and positioning, off-road riders often determine stem length based on how the bike handles. Regular riders will want a fairly neutral position so will go with a slight rise, say 6° or 7° and a middling length according to their needs and position. Alloy stems are relatively cheap and light weight so they are the most common model available. Carbon stems are lighter and can be incredibly stiff but they’re also way more expensive so usually favoured by racers or weight weenies.Leisure riders will appreciate a more upright, closer position as this more comfortable and easier to control. So stems no longer than 100mm and with 10 degrees or rise will be a good option for most.