Spes Outside Tap Kit With Back Plate Elbow and Accessories

Product Information

For this example we are going to use copper pipework and compression fittings and a standard wall plate for the tap. Diagram for Fitting Outside Tap As it’s highly unlikely that you’ll use the tap anyway through the winter months, this is certainly the best choice. Alternatives to Fitting Outside Taps There is usually a tangle of waste pipes and hot and cold water feed pipes under the sink which make connection of an outside tap difficult so in many cases it may be easier to look between the units, or even behind them to source a cold water feed to the outside tap which is a little easier to work with.

Choose a place to cut the pipes that has plenty of space around it and a good 100mm or so either side of the pipe so that you can easily get a T-joint in place. Once you’ve made it through with the small drill swap for the large bit and then re-drill the hole from the inside. Once about half way through, go outside and drill out the rest of the hole. As said, this will prevent the large drill bit blowing a huge chunk off the face of the outside wall. Step 4 – Fit Isolation Valve and Drain Plug To insatall an outside tap correctly and ensure all works as it should do, you will need the following products and tools:If it’s not possible to install an outside tap, another way to provide a water source would be to install and use a water-butt. This is a great way to capture and store water, no just because rainwater is pretty readily available in the UK, but also because it is free! As you can see, all of this has been made using copper pipe and copper compression fittings and this is absolutely fine, but if you have never attempted any plumbing before we would suggest that you use Pushfit fittings as they are much easier to work with. To prevent any such issues with your new garden tap it’s a good idea to trun the water off at the isolation valve and then drain the water out of the supply pipe through the drain plug. If it freezes and expands inside a pipe it can very easily cause it to burst which can be a nightmare in terms of leaks and also having to repair it.

Connect a 90° bend fitting to the end of the pipework running from the drain valve and cut a length of pipe to run through the wall. This should be the total depth of the hole plus enough to run out to a 90° bend at either end. With the pipe cut, unscrew and remove the compression nut and olive from the end of your compression fittings and slip them over each end of the cut pipe, cap first and then olive and then wiggle the fitting body over each end of the pipe.

Each installation is different and as we have mentioned, will allow you to use a range of different fittings and techniques so take a look at our projects on how to join copper pipes by either using compression joints, or you can use soldered joints if you’re handy with a soldering iron or you could even use SPEEDFIT® plastic piping and joints.

Once the guttering is fitted and water is able to fill your water butt you can use a simple tank connector, available for all plumbers merchants, to join more water butts together, giving you more storage. With the new T-joint in place for the pipe branch you can then work out exactly where to drill the hole through the wall to run the pipe through. If you intend to use a Power Washer, we recommend you don’t use a self cut tee, use one of our Professional Tap kits.Push each olive down to meet the body and then wrap 3 or so layers of PTFE tape around the threads on the body and screw the compression cap up and tighten, making sure the joint for the new pipe branch is straight and level and pointing the right way.

The easiest way to make a sleeve is by using a length of 22mm plastic or copper pipe cut to the depth of the hole and then pushed through. In the majority of cases, most are joined to the domestic cold water under the sink that feeds the kitchen taps as there is generally plenty of room to install the necessary pipework and it’s obviously right next to a water supply. The last job to do then is to use a suitable exterior sealant and pump a load of it into the sleeve and around the external hole to seal it up and prevent any draughts or water ingress. Do this on the inside also. Ideally this will be somewhere where there is plenty of space as you will need to get a large drill in there.

Do Outside Taps Need a Double Check Valve?

Once the hole is drilled you can then start fitting the pipework. Cut a short length of pipe to run from the T-joint to an isolation valve. Again, using copper or Pushfit is totally fine, but if you are new to this sort of work then Pushfit is the way to go. Fit the valve to the end of the pipe. If you are soldering, solder the bend on the pipe before fixing it in place as it’s easier than trying to solder when it’s just poking through the wall. Likewise this is also the case if using compression joints. As you now know the type of tap you need and all the other tools and products, it’s now time to go through exactly how to fit an outside tap. However, the connection does not have to be made under the sink, as long as it’s a cold water supply at mains pressure, that’s all that’s needed. Don’t be tempted to feed an outside tap from water coming from a cold water tank as this will seriously affect cold water availability in the home. Cover the area with dust sheets and then pop the 8mm bit in the drill and position the tip on the drilling point and start drilling. Don’t force the drill bit into the surface too much, let the drill do the work.