Starnearby MR16 to GU10 Adapter Kit - Light Socket Bulb Base Adapter Converter MR16 to GU10 for Halogen, LED Bulbs - 5 Pack in White

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It will save you money. MR16s are generally more expensive and their unreliable nature means they’re more likely to need replacing. The MR16 has 2 thin pins on its base while the GU10 has 2 lugs at the end of the pins. Why does it matter?

the rules changed, today any 230 volt lamp needs an earth taking to it, even if not used, so there should be an earth at the transformer even if the transformer is class II, and it seems those holders do have an earth connection, so unlikely class II seems class I. Both MR16 and GU10 light bulbs come with the same LED chip design which may incorporate an older independent multi LED format (see figure below) or a newer combined multi LED format or a chip on board (COB) type. These days in more compact light designs it is rare to see the independent multi LED format, although some of these are still produced due to cost savings or simply the use of older technology which suits some smaller LED types. Otherwise the MR16 LED bulb is simply a push in fit, whereas the GU10 bulb is a push in and twist fit much like a standard B22 light bulb. As most people would know a licensed electrician is not required to change a light bulb, only if there is mains wiring to be performed.Replacing conventional MR16s with LED MR16s can be difficult as you will also need to switch each bulb’s transformer to an LED compatible version. How do I switch to GU10? There is a tendency in the electrical trade to call a new device after the device it replaces, often with the word electronic in front of it, it may be a switched mode power supply or a pulse width modulated power supply but since it replaces a transformer we call it an electronic transformer. MR16 stands for multifaceted reflector diameter 16/8th inch across, the latter is to do with how the early cathode ray tubes were rated. It will give you more choice in your lighting options, including smooth dimming. LED MR16’s dimming systems can be very unreliable while GU10s offer excellent quality of lighting.

Now the older magnetic transformers will work perfectly with LED MR16s. The issue is that the electronic low voltage transformers may not. The reason for this is that they need a minimum voltage to pass through them to operate; for example the transformer in my kitchen is 40w – 400w. Historically there were 6 50w halogen bulbs in the circuit – giving a total load of 300w. I know that GU10 LED 220V on a dimmer they should be sold as dimmable, but if you use MR16 12V with a dimmable driver, are 12V LED bulbs already dimmable and OK for say 3-12V?Most modern residential homes in Australia will utilise either a 12V 50W MR16 or 240V GU10 50W dichroic halogen light bulbs in their ceiling downlights. Our LED MR16 and GU10 bulbs are an ideal replacement with an electricity saving of between 75% to 90% depending on the configuration and a reduction in heat generation of up to 80%. That means as little as one tenth of the usual electricity bill for running your lights and up to 30% saving on your air conditioning electricity usage due to the reduction in heat. Another point worth noting… many spots produce ‘torch beams’ dark/light areas that are awful in kitchens. I’ve found that the smd LED versions give much better light spread.

Halogen bulbs claim to last 2000hrs (2 years average), but it’s more like 1000. Some GU10 LEDs claim 24,000hrs, but that’s an even bigger lie! However, the EU implemented a law in 2014 – LEDs now must last at least 6000hrs, so they last 3x longer than halogens, minimum (more like 6x longer or more)! I have 4 x G5.3 MR16 compatible lights in my bathroom all LED around 4 watt each and I see no reason to change them, there are in pods so aimed as areas I want lighting, and the pods are not really suitable for low voltage (230 vac) so using the extra low voltage (12 vac) units. However my G5.3 bulbs have never blown, and I have two spare toroidal transformers, so even if one bulb blows, loads of time to find a replacement, so likely will never be replaced, don't really know why I ever fitted them? The push for a single LED source or COB LED has been aimed at replicating a small source or point source to create a single shadow with a crisp outline, unlike the multi-LED sources or first generation MR16 LEDs which create a fuzzier outline through the prescen of multiple sources, typically 4 or 5 LEDs. In most applications neither is a disadvantage, although the single point source more closely replicates the traditional dichroic halogen. You can now get dimmable G4’s in 220VAC & 12VDC. This asks the question… is its best to swap the driver and use 12V LED’s or by-pass the original transformer and use 220V LED’s?We would always recommend using a qualified electrician, but if you are confident with basic electrical work then you may choose to do this yourself. This video shows you how it’s done. You will need a GU10 lampholder (the fitting that sits in the recess of your ceiling) to install your new GU10 bulbs.

The first thing you need to do is determine the existing type of transformer you have in your MR16 circuit. This will most likely be situated up in the roof above the light fittings – now in some circuits there is one transformer, but sometimes every individual light fitting has its own transformer. They tend to come in two varieties; the first is the older wire-wound magnetic transformers and the second is the newer electronic low-voltage transformer. Both work by stepping down the mains voltage (240v) to 12 volts, which allows the bulbs to function.

So you have MR16 bulbs…

Now that you have successfully identified your lamp, you have two options. If it is a GU10, you can simply replace it with a LED GU10 equivalent. However, if this is an MR16 then we strongly advise you make the switch over to GU10. false. You must’ve had 1 bad ‘bulb’ (LED bulbs are called lamps, I think, and they contain many LEDs in each lamp). The LEDs in each lamp slowly fail and thus the light dims (30% failed LEDs is where they deemed to be dead, I think, or 70% ?). You don’t always need to change the full fitting when swapping MR16 to GU10. My kitchen had the loose fly lead connections in the ceiling downlights. I rewired these to GU10’s mains and the old ceiling fitting still held the new GU10’s. You would not be able to do this on rigid fittings though!