Gyproc Plasterboard Patches various sizes 12 Pack (2 x 50mm, 5 x 100mm & 5 x 150mm))

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In both cases, you'll need to skim over the undercoat plaster or the plasterboard to achieve a smooth finish, smooth enough to paint onto. There are many different fillers and plaster products available, so be sure to consider the range and select a product that is best suited to your job. For example, if you only need a small amount, you might find it easier to use ready mixed plaster

You may be doing the same, or you may just be skimming over little bits, leaving most of your existing plaster exposed. Either way, I have covered how to skim coat in another post. Here's a link to it which will open in a new tab for you. Locate the joists each side of the hole with a stud detector. Next draw a line along each joist, half-way across its width, with a straightedge and pencil. Then join them up to mark a square or rectangle around the damaged area. Step 1Remove any items or objects from the wall so nothing protrudes out from the wall & make sure your wall is clean and dry.

Another complication that springs to light when you have unfortunately made a hole in a plasterboard wall or hollow door is the void behind it due to the construction of the stud work used to hold the plasterboard up or provide the framework for the door meaning that you can’t just use filler as there is nothing to bond it to.Roller - including the handle, obviously! Like the brush, we're using it to apply a PVA/water solution, so we're going for coverage, not quality, so just get a cheap one for this. Although, a short pile would avoid a lot of mess. If you can get yourself a scraper with a metal plate on the end of a handle, like the one above, this'll help as you can tap the end with a hammer and use it like a bolster. But instead, I use my trusty (super flexible) squeegee or skimming spreader and sweep it over the area in a couple of directions and this creates a beautifully smooth surface which reduces the amount of sanding you have to do (a winner in my book!) As you will need to do a bit of cutting, before you start this, firstly run over the area around the hole with a wire detector to make sure there aren’t any wires, pipes or other items that you may accidentally cut through. Now draw two lines across the gap to create a rectangle around the hole. Cut out the existing plasterboard with a sharp Stanley knife or use a small jab saw.

Some plaster products shouldn’t be applied to a depth of more the 12mm in one go. If this is the case, you may need to make two or more applications Painters brush - just for the PVA, so 1.5 inches or more will do and it doesn't matter if it's a rubbish brush - we're going for coverage, not quality here. Why is it that the plaster in the corners of windows always fails? Well, I'll tell you about that in a jiffy. For now, let's get it sorted. Give the masonry a good clean out with a brush and a vacuum cleaner, Remember to get the edges of the old plaster too, that'll be quite dusty and dust is not our friend.With Bonding Coat, it contains really large particles. It's no good for a finishing skim, it's just too rough. It does however provide a really good key for a finishing skim coat. Therefore, don't worry too much about getting it smooth, just concentrate on getting the levels right i.e. it shouldn't poke out too far and there shouldn't be a dip. Cut a piece of plasterboard that is slightly narrower than the hole but an inch or so longer top and bottom. Screw in a long screw in the middle of the patch; this will be used to position the patch in place.

The reason that plaster mostly fails in the corners and around the recesses of windows is due to two main reasons: The final stage to this repair is to fill the hole with a suitable filler such as Polyfilla or the like. Once mixed (or the tub is open if you have a pre-mixed version), scoop out a lump using a small trowel and apply it to the hole, using the trowel to completely fill the area of the hole by pushing into the corners. If there are only a few bits of detached plaster, great, this means you're in the right place, read on. If there are lots of loose bits of plaster and you're unsure whether it's worth patching it up, I would opt for removing the lot from that wall and re-plastering it all, better safe than sorry. To learn how to completely re-plaster a wall, start here.Measure and cut a new piece of plasterboard to fill the hole. Fix in place with plasterboard screws or nails. Mix up plaster, apply and leave to dry. Place a piece of self-adhesive plasterboard repair mesh tape over the hole, ensuring that all four edges are covered. If the home is too large for a single piece to cover all the sides, use multiple pieces with as little overlap as possible. With the batten positioned screw it in place through the front of the plasterboard making sure the screw heads go below the skim of plaster on the board. Do this with both battens and then cut a square of plasterboard to fit in the hole. This can be screwed to the battens with drywall screws and the square plastered together with the 4 screw holes for the battens. Drive nails into the noggins at an angle to secure them to the joists. Using plasterboard that's slightly thinner than the depth of your ceiling, cut a piece the same size as the hole. Fix it in place with plasterboard nails along the joists and noggins. Step 3