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Posted 20 hours ago

Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14-150 mm F4-5.6 II Lens, Universal Zoom, Suitable for All MFT Cameras (Olympus OM-D & PEN Models, Panasonic G-Series), Black

£199.5£399Clearance
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About this deal

If I had to recommend a “first lens” to a beginner who had just invested in an Olympus camera, I would not hesitate to suggest the M.Zuiko 14-150mm f/4-5.6 II. There is no better lens to help you develop your photography skills and discover the genre that appeals to you above all others.

The 14-150mm is an internal-focusing superzoom, and shows a trait very characteristic of this lens type, in that its angle of view gets noticeably wider on focusing closer. This results in a visible 'twitch' of the live view image when focusing, which is most obvious on the E-P1/E-P2/E-PL1. 'Focus-by-wire' manual focusEDUCATION: Chris graduated Magna Cum Laude from Adelphi University with a degree in Communications in Journalism in 2009. Since then, he's learned and adapted to various things in the fields of social media, SEO, app development, e-commerce development, HTML, etc. Why feel obliged to post comment on M4/3 forums, eg negative comparisons , disparaging remarks, messages of doom.

The long telephoto range also doesn't lend itself well to the less-stable shooting pose encouraged by these bodies: holding the camera out so you can see the LCD screen makes everything that bit more prone to shake, no matter how good your technique. This makes it advisable to use a clip-on EVF if you have one for a more stable pose, especially in less-than-perfect light. Zoom creep A perennial problem with superzoom lenses is zoom creep, or a tendency for the lens to extend under its own weight when carried normally. Our review sample seems almost immune to this; the trade-off is that somewhat stiff zoom action. Compared to Micro Four Thirds kit zooms Sell the kit you’re not using to MPB. Trade in for the kit you need to create. Buy used, spend less and get more. Buy. Sell. Trade. Create. Chromatic aberrations, typically seen as purple or blue fringes along contrasty edges, are quite well controlled with this lens. These are the absolute worst examples we were able to dig up (not to mention we had to shoot raw again, as the OM-D E-M5 II's JPEG engine automatically compensated for chromatic aberrations, and did a great job of it). The promise of the ZERO (Zuiko Extra-low Reflection Optical) coating applied to the surface of the front element was enhanced resistance to flare and ghosting – and indeed you need to frame your shots in a pretty awful way (see photo above) to see any ghosts or streaking. Our experiment shows that flare effects can definitely be triggered (if you go to great lengths to trigger them, that is) but they aren't likely to raise their ugly heads during normal, everyday shooting – especially if you use a lens hood. Chromatic AberrationsGenerally, sharp images with this lens are best achieved with the lens in the middle of the zoom range (~50mm). Stopping down to ƒ/8 provides optimal sharpness. My only real complaint is that the zoom ring is too stiff for creative movie recording. While it can be handled really easily for shooting still pictures, if you want to zoom in or out while recording a movie, it is nearly impossible to do it without causing camera shake at an extent that cannot be compensated by the built-in stabilizer. It might have quite a prominent flare burst when the sun is at a certain angle in the frame (the flare is quite spectacular as "art" effect, but sometimes you just don't want it :) ) And I generally see the same thing in forums discussing the two. What I do see, is that the Oly 14-150 MK2 (not one), is splash-proof which both Panny lenses aren't. The main controls on the lens are a focusing ring and a zoom ring function. The lens becomes larger as you zoom into a subject, which means that it isn’t an internal zoom offering. But that shouldn’t be a problem considering how small the lens really is. Image Quality

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