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This software supports the M1 HE, MG108, MG108W, MG75, MG75W, M1W Multi-mode, M7W Multi-mode, M1/M2/M3/M5/M6 Domestic Version. Note: M1/M2/M3/M5/M6 QMK International Versions could not be customized with the driver. After customizing my Keychron K2 V2, I thought I was done with keyboards. Perhaps I should’ve known that it wasn’t yet my endgame and I would soon yearn for more. It took almost half a year for me to feel the itch again, but I did eventually get the urge again to look for something new, especially one with a knob. I also wanted to try using a new switch since I wanted to see if there was something even more tactile than the Akko CS Jelly Blue switches I had on my Keychron. I ended up getting an Akko 5075S, and it turned out pretty amazing. Have something to say? Do you agree or am I off-base? Did I miss a crucial detail or get something wrong? Please leave whatever reactions, questions, or suggestions you may have in the comment section below. Worth noting that I already have boba u4t's and keycaps so I would prefer barebones, but am not opposed to prebuilds for extras (mainly concerning the Akko 5075b because I like the keycaps and switches that come with it). Also, I'm hoping to do a silicone mod because I like the end product. The 5075 series consists of three different variations. The 5075S barebones, 5075S assembled and 5075B. The 5075S boards are only used wired with a removable USB-C cable, while the 5075B can be used both wired and wireless via both bluetooth and a 2.4ghz USB receiver. In this article we’re going to focus on the 5075S barebones kit. Then again, outside of the switches and keycaps being included, it’s the same base as the assembled variations.
But that doesn’t mean that it’s perfect. the plastic clips instead of screws make the board harder to take apart, you can see blue, green, white and pink bleeding into the top from the indication LEDs and stabilizers, as well as any color from the sides if you have a different color from the top. You’ll also need a bigger keycap kit, as the 3x 1u keycaps on the bottom row makes it incompatible with your average 104 key set. With the N-Key Rollover (NKRO) function, the keyboard supports simultaneous key presses without problems, which is especially important for optimising the gaming experience.As for the keycap set, I felt like one of my G-MKY kits went best with the light blue color of the barebones kit. Then again, outside of the 3x 1U keys at the bottom (would’ve honestly preferred 2x 1.25u), Akko used a very standard layout otherwise. While cheap 104-key sets won’t be an option here, you can use most kits from the likes of YMDK, G-MKY and Akko themselves.
The Akko 5075S is a 75% gasket-mount keyboard with a plastic body, polycarbonate plate, and screwless construction. There’s a barebones kit with a hotswappable board and a body that comes in four colors, Vintage White, Blue Ash (bluish light gray), Pale Dogwood (pink), and Starry Night (dark blue). I got the last one to match my GMK Blue Samurai (clone) keycaps. All keycaps are made of PBT and the inscriptions are produced using the double-shot process, which is one of the most durable inscription methods to prevent wear or discolouration with use. I'm struggling to decide between the Epomaker TH80, the new Akko 5075b, and the Feker IK75 pro. There are things I like about each, but none of them fully fits the bill. I'm currently leaning towards the Epomaker TH80, but was hoping to get thoughts/opinions/experience before I make my decision. As for the feel of the board, the gasket mounting makes it quite flexible, giving it a much softer bottom out compared to a traditional tray mount keyboard. I personally very much prefer this, as the average tray mount keyboard feels rather stiff in comparison. It also produces quite a nice sound for an ABS plastic housing board… Would still prefer the sound of an aluminium board, but considering the price I definitely can’t complain. Other than that, you can clearly see some unpopulated headers for a battery, indicating together with the writing on the other side that the same PCB is used for the 5075B boards. While you could go through the effort of making it bluetooth compatible, there’s little price difference with the bluetooth version, which doesn’t make it worth it.And while Akko is now slowly starting with QMK/VIA compatible PCBs with their recent announcement of a MOD007 refresh, as well as their daughter Monsgeek having the QMK/VIA compatible M1 (75%) and M2 (96%), the 5075S isn’t at the time of writing. You can still reprogram it in Akko’s own Cloud Driver software, it’s not with the same amount of flexibility. Cons: prebuild is double the price when I already have switches/keycaps ready to go, NORTH facing LEDs, rumblings about connectivity issues with previous Akko PC75b Cons: while I like the the bottom LEDs, the case itself looks more cheap being transparent (guess that's a personal preference), potential virus with the software (not sure if that's just a rumor?), NORTH facing LEDs The lineup’s four colors are based on Pantone, thus the descriptive names. I got the Starry Night color to match it with Blue Samurai keycaps. While they’re not exactly the same shade of blue, they’re close enough that they seem to match nonetheless. If there’s any reason to buy a barebones kit, it’s having your choice of switches and keycaps to go with it.
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