1/2" Rigilene White 50 Yard Roll Polyester sew Through Boning

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It’s super light, thin, flexible, and since it is a plastic, you can simply heat it up, shape it, and it will hold its shape as it cools. Uses: Garments that require very light support. Highly recommended for garments used in high voltage environments. Washable spring steel boning is the best of all – it is flexible and does not get damaged when washed. The way it can bend to the contours of the body or the way you want the garment is the best thing about metal boning. Spiral boning is made of a flattened spring. These are cut with wire cutters and then a cap is put at the end. Flat steel boning coated with resin is another option – you get these in rigid and flexible types. Rigilene Reed pieces that can be bought in shops for making baskets can be used as boning. You have to buy reeds of diameter 2mm for this purpose. Metal strapping Advantages: Plastic material is extremely durable and highly resistant to washing detergents and other fluids. High flexibility.

Rigilene or precovered boning works for this method. Sew either Rigilene or the boning casing to the pressed-open side seam allowance by centering it over the seam and stitching down one side at a time without catching the garment face. In recent years, cable ties have found their place in corsetry as a budget-friendly alternative to traditional boning materials. These ties, typically used for securing cables, are repurposed for corsets due to their flexibility and affordability. Side by side two authentic baleen corset bones (top) and a plastic 'whalebone' at the bottom (white). The modern version is maybe half a mm wider than the actual whalebone. If you are using the sew-through type of boning, follow the same steps as above, cutting the boning pieces shorter than each seam by ¾” (1.9cm) on each end. Instead of sewing the fabric casings to the bodice, center the boning over the seam line, and edge stitch along both edges right through the boning. Figure 18: Sew-Through boning

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Having said all that, I do use Rigilene in corsetry and dressmaking for various little jobs where I need a bit of extra 'body' to a certain section of a garment - horiszontally over the bust to make a rounded shape for instance, or at the side bust to help a forward thrust where light help is required. I also use it in corset modesty panels where only a slight amount of stiffness is required because I can sew through it and it makes one job less fiddly. I sometimes use it as a supplement to steel boning in certain closed front corsets and bodices but it wont give enough support on it's own. A novel application I've heard it being used for is to make feeding tents for babies and breastfeeding mums. The Boning is available in 2 widths, ¼” and ½”. Each width is used according to the degree of structure you want to achieve. The ¼” will give light support and structure, while the ½” will give heavier support and structure. Customers use the ½” Sew Through Boning for garments such as strapless dresses or boned bodices. The Boning can be sewn right into the front seam of a princess style dress. Customers also use ½” Rigilene Boning in the lower cup of bras, for extra support. The ¼” Rigilene Boning is used for general applications, in areas that require light support and structure. Uses: Specially created for giving shape and support to strapless garments, theatrical costumes, evening wear, beachwear, and soft toys. Flat steel boning stands as a timeless option in the realm of corsetry. This type of boning is mainly made from strong stainless steel.

Hello, would you recommend the whalebone or spiral steel for a Shaheen style dress? The dress would be worn over a corset or corselet to provide the body shaping. The dress only needs the help to stay smooth and upright over the bodice and bust. Thank you so much for your very informative posts. Figure 14, Take the boning out of its casings. You’ll have curly plastic strips. To straighten out the boning pieces, fill a shallow dish with boiling water and drop the plastic pieces into the water. Leave the boning in the hot water for five to ten minutes, using a mug or dish to hold the pieces under water. Take the pieces out and press them flat under something heavy while they cool off. (If you’re not able to soften the boning in hot water, alternate the direction of the curl as you insert each piece into its casing so that they don’t curve the same way. Over time they should straighten out.) (Figure 14) The purpose of the boning in a corset varied slightly from era to era. Generally, the cinching/shaping properties of corsetry puts strain onto the fabric from which the corset is made. The boning supports the desired shape and prevents wrinkling of the corset fabric. Bones, and the substances used for the purpose, are generically called boning. U-shaped tips that cover the cut ends of continuous boning. They come in ½” or ¼” to match your the size of your boning.In corsetry, a bone is one of the rigid parts of a corset that forms its frame and gives it rigidity. The purpose of the boning in a corset varies slightly from era to era. Generally, the cinching/shaping properties of corsetry puts strain onto the fabric from which the corset is made. The boning supports the desired shape and prevents wrinkling of the corset fabric. Bones, and the substances used for the purpose, are generically called "boning"; however, the name likely arises from the use of whalebone in early corsets. Boning refers to the strips of rigid material, typically made of steel or plastic, that are sewn into the seams of a dress to provide structure and support. It plays a crucial role in shaping the garment and ensuring a flattering fit on the wearer. Plastic boning is particularly favored in modern fashion corsets and costumes, where flexibility and ease of wear are essential. However, it's important to note that plastic boning may not provide as much support as steel boning in tightly laced or heavily structured corsets. According to the manufacturers catalogue this type of boning is " 100% plastic, is machine washable and possesses good spring characteristics, therefore returning to its original shape without any tendency to kink". Note: I have seen this type of boning being confused with plastic 'multi bones' from the same manufacturer, which are made from spun polyester and are not the same as synthetic boning as they are described in the catalogue as being "extremely soft".

This type of boning is extremely light weight and it’s possible to sew it into position straight onto the garment or the lining. I try and send all corset customers this guide so I thought I would pop the information on my blog. Here is my guide to boning! Bra-makers Tip – You can cut Rigilene easily with scissors and finish the ends with heat from a match or lighter. This melts the rigid interior strands and keeps them from poking out. Alternately, you can cover the cut end with a piece of fabric stitched over the end. Uses: The boning ends will need to be finished, you can buy rubber end tips – or finish with scrap fabric as below.

Plastic vs Stainless Steel Boning

Plastic or featherlite boning can be used for more than just shaping clothing. It can be sewn in any direction needed to keep your garment in place. Here are some ways you can use boning to make your everyday clothes more comfortable and fit better. Fitting The Larger & Smaller Bust – Professional & Technically Accurate Methods – FBA – SBA May 2, 2023

The corsets of the 16th through 18th centuries (called "stays", " bodies" or "corps") were intended to mold the upper torso into a rigid, cone-like shape. The earliest corsets had a wooden busk placed down the center fronts of the corsets; these early busks were different from the more modern steel busks which have clasps to facilitate opening and closing the corset from the front. Corsets of the 17th and 18th centuries were most often heavily boned, with little or no space between the bone channels. This was necessary to force the body to conform to the desired shape of the era. At the time, the most popular materials used for boning were giant reeds or whalebone. [1] Whalebone was the most commonly-used and most expensive material. [2] When adding boning to a dress, it is crucial to consider the individual body shape and measurements. Experienced seamstresses or dressmakers know how to strategically place the boning to enhance the natural curves of the wearer. They may use techniques such as contouring or padding to create a more customized fit and ensure the dress flatters the wearer's unique body shape. Perhaps we are just asking the wrong question here and comparing apples to oranges! Plastic boning and steel boning both have their own particular applications. Even though they both perform the same essential function, there will be times where plastic will be preferred and other times when you’ll just have to use steel! Though there are a variety of ways to attach boning, the most common is to sew it to the underlining or lining , inserted in a casing or sewn directly to the material. Here are a few examples: While providing sufficient support, spiral steel boning also allows for a greater range of motion compared to flat steel boning. Corsets intended for active wear or prolonged periods of use often incorporate spiral steel boning in their designs.Fortunately fixing these issues is really simple. Most competent seamstresses will have sewn a special channel for the boning, so you just need to find the channel by feel, and get to work. There are several types of boning material available, including plastic and steel. Plastic boning is more flexible, lightweight, and suitable for lightweight dresses or garments where a certain level of flexibility is desired. Steel boning, on the other hand, provides more rigidity and support and is often used in formal gowns or corsets where maximum support and shaping is required.