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Stephenson Melt And Pour Soap Base Clear SLS FREE - 1Kg

£11£22.00Clearance
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Melt-n-pour is so simple it lends itself to experimentation. My first simple experimental soap was a 'Jam Tart' soap, which was well received by small children and a great way of adding a little fun to a childs bathtime. The simple techniques of combining sheets of soap which can be separately coloured and/or fragranced and easily rolled or shaped whilst still slightly soft, with a separately coloured/fragranced soap poured into or around the shape can result in a huge variety of colours and appearances. Use opaque soap within a clear soap to show off the colours and shapes within to their best. Swiss Roll' loafs are also easy to achieve. Find a suitable loaf mould and measure the length. Pour a sheet of coloured soap and cut it to the same width as the mould is long. Let the sheet set for a while and whilst still soft, roll it up loosely (or lay 2 or more different coloured sheets on top of one another and roll together). Place the roll into the loaf mould and carefully pour the clear soap base into the mould, slowly, allowing it to flow between all the gaps in the roll. Let set and slice for best effect. Some recipes use oils as addictives (superfat). With this, I did have bad experiences, with the oils separating from the soap base, therefore, I don’t advise it. If you make the soap base at home, add your superfat when making the soap. Use Mendrulandia soap calculator to adjust oils and lye water quantities. However, my soap base recipes already have a superfat of 5%, so you don’t really need to worry about it. If you are purchasing your soap base, follow the manufacturer’s instructions about addictives, and see if you can add an oil or butter. Removing individual soaps from moulds is perfectly simple. Be sure to leave the soap to cool completely. If using a suitable mass-produced mould, which will have a shiny surface, the soap will release with slight pressure. More complex or larger moulds can require some force. To help remove a soap from a large or complicated mould, ensure it has fully set and put it in the freezer until quite cold throughout (don't actually freeze it), When you remove it from the freezer the change in temperature on the surface of the soap will help it release from the mould. This method can be especially useful when making large loafs or slabs, which are to be cut by weight or into bar sizes later.

The secret for making glycerin soap is the addition of solvents to the oils-lye water mixture. And the secret to make a crystal-clear soap base at home is to use stearic acid with the oils and the right temperatures. It’s very easy to turn your soap base yellowish (the sugar syrup will go brown easily with high temperature), so make sure you don’t overheat the soap batter. By now most of you know I’m a soap maker. I have a small business that makes more than 400 bars a month and it’s still growing. I sell a lot of soap at the tailgate markets in the summer and I always have people asking for a glycerin soap base. It’s still a common myth that glycerin soap is milder and better for you. That can be true in some cases, but when you hand-craft a good cold process bar of soap, it contains just about as much glycerin. Alcohol– You can use either isopropyl or ethyl (ethanol) alcohol. Ethanol seems to create a more clear soap. Each type of alcohol comes in different strengths. You want to find the purest/highest strength that you can so that you’ll end up with less water in your soap.When cool, remove from the mold. Wrap soap in plastic wrap or wax paper. You must wrap it right away or it may collect moisture from the air and bead “sweat” on the surface.

Step 4: Once my oils were melted I created the lye solution. I wanted it to be nice and hot. To make a lye solution weigh the water and sodium hydroxide into two separate containers. Pour the lye into the water and stir. Essential oils or fragrance oils can add delightful scents to your soap. As your soap has gone through saponification already, the addition of essential oils will also add plant properties to your soap, without the concern of having them destroyed by saponification. In theory, fragrances and certain additives can sometimes alter the clarity of the soap or cause discoloration. In practice, I didn’t observe it with transparent soaps so far. But beware, as it might happen. Make a test on small batches or only on one soap, to be on the safe side. Use little quantities of colorant if you really want to keep your soap highly transparent. More than 1/16 of a teaspoon, depending on the colorant, and the soap becomes opaque. The best way is to add very little colorant at a time until you are satisfied with the color and soap transparency. Simple food colours can easily be used, as can liquid soap colours and other water-soluble liquid colour bases. Obviously the depth of a particular colour is dependent upon how much is used. Don't be tempted to over-colour your soaps, especially if using clear soap bases, as the transparency of the finished soap will be affected if too much colour is used, plus, coloured lather in use is off-putting. Fragrance can be added either using essential oils or simple fragrance oils, which are available in a huge range of tempting fragrances these days. Again, strength of fragrance is dependent upon the amount added. For a meaningful fragrance, around 20ml fragrance per Kilo of soap (2%) is sufficient, so a few drops per single bar is fine. As a guide, a maximum of 3% fragrance addition is generally advised. Irridescent powders or glitters may float or sink to the bottom of a mould depending on their make-up, so a suspending base may be helpful if you want to avoid this. Also, glitters and sheens can become lost if too much is added, so be sparing for best results.There are soft forms of Melt & Pour soap bases available (often known as bath butter or 'ice cream' soap), which can be piped like a cream icing when warm, which can be used to great effect when 'decorating' soap 'cakes'. Figure out how much soap base you need. An average bar of soap is 4 ounces and the mold will tell you how many ounces it holds. Use a bit more as some will remain on the melting container and spoon. alcohol may be hard to find. Don’t use rubbing alcohol, you will never get rid of the smell! I use a 75% Everclear which is available in most areas. If not, ask at your local liquor store. They can recommend what may work. Keep it clear and unscented.

All handmade soap is glycerin soap, as we know now, including what we know as glycerin soap (clear soap). On the other hand, commercial soaps usually use synthetic detergents or see their natural glycerin removed, becoming non-glycerin soaps. Non-glycerin soaps are more drying and less mild to skin, because glycerin acts as an humectant, trapping moisture in your skin. Therefore, glycerin soap, or any handmade soap, is usually better than non-glycerin soap. Step 9– Let the soap cook for 2 hours. During this time the solvents will work on dissolving the soap crystals that form, creating a clear soap. No need to stir. Step 1: Create a sugar solution. Combine water and sugar and heat just until it boils. Remove from heat and see if it is clear. It usually is clear as soon as it boils. If it isn’t clear, boil a few seconds longer. Do not let it boil for long or it will burn and discolor your soap. Set aside. There are my results and recipes that I’ve tried so far. As the soap cures a bit, the lather and clarity can improve. So, test your soap right after you make it and test it again in a few weeks. First and foremost, if you’re looking to make clear soap, it’s essential to start with a high-quality clear melt and pour soap base. This is the foundation of your recipe, so it’s crucial to choose the right one. When shopping for a soap base, look for a product specifically labeled as clear. This ensures that your soap will have a translucent appearance, giving it that beautiful transparent quality. Avoid bases that have a yellowish or cloudy tint, as this can affect the clarity of your final product.This is where I started. I didn’t have a good alcohol, only 70% isopropyl so didn’t expect super clear soap. I wanted to try it without a sugar solution. Use your transparent soap as-is or use for embeds! Here is what mine looks like. Not perfect, but I love it!

Solvents are what make the magic happen. They dissolve the soap crystals that normally form when combining sodium hydroxide with fatty acids (base oils). Solvents include alcohol, liquid glycerin and sugar. You can use one, or for best results, try a combination. The simplest technique is to colour a small amount of opaque soap base and pour it into a shallow mould. Once set, cut into small chunks or flakes. Make up a complimentary coloured batch of clear soap base. Place the chunks in the mould for the final soap and pour the second, clear soap into the mould over the opaque chunks. This gives a simple and effective appearance to an otherwise plain bar. Warning! You do use alcohol in this process so be aware of open flames or anything that might ignite the fumes. I went so far as to blow out the gas starters on my stove since I was making this in my kitchen. I opened the patio door so that I had fresh air at all times. Make sure you have a fire extinguisher on hand (a bit dramatic, but you should have one in your kitchen anyways). Is it perfectly clear? No. But I was tired of cooking it at this point! lol I declared it ready for the next step. Cover to prepare your sugar solution.The addition of extra ingredients is more leisurely using this method, as continuous low heat is available to keep the mixture from forming a skin. Again, be careful not to introduce bubbles if at all possible. Fragrance should be the last addition, as heat will cause some evaporation. Again, work on around 20ml of fragrance or essential oil per Kilo for a meaningful fragrance. Results: The most crystal clear soap. Must wrap right after unmolding because of the high amount of solvents. Not the best lather when unmolded but it will probably improve a bit.

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