LIGHTWEIGHT 25.4mm BICYCLE ALLOY SEATPOST SADDLE STEM 300mm LONG

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Don’t punch it in. If it can’t be eased in by hand, it’s probably too wide. Forcing it in makes it very, very difficult to move or take out later. It might even damage some frames.

Skinnier seatposts are in vogue at the moment for the same reason skinny seatstays are popular: the theory is that they offer greater flex and therefore comfort. Having said that: going a bit too narrow can be fixed with some DIY shims from Coca-Cola cans (that’s one thing that drink is good for 🙂 ), Since measuring often can’t be done to a 1/100 of a millimeter in accuracy, the next section gives a list of the most commonly used standard seatpost diameters. If a measured diameter differs, it can be assumed that the correct diameter is the standard one that most closely matches the measured diameter. Enve's 2nd generation head is better than the old one but still not that good IMO, and it's expensive, overpriced as most things Enve. But bikes and bike parts are more than just functional items. We’re drawn to bicycles and components that not only appear to fit our performance criteria but also our eye. Enve makes lovely looking parts, including this seatpost, that no doubt provide joy to those who shell out their hard-earned cash for them. And in the end, it’s hard to argue against that. SpecsSorry, I meant that my seat tube is 30.9mm. What seat post would best fit in that seat tube, I was thinking 27.2 but wouldn’t that be too narrow? Regarding, measuring the internal diameter of the frame seat tube, I wouldn’t just measure at the top, as it could be splayed out. I would measure further down, as well, using a pair of internal callipers, or an inside micrometer. Reviewing bike parts is somewhat subjective. So to better try and evaluate the performance of the Enve seatpost, I swapped in another expensive carbon seatpost by way of comparison. I did this again with a high-end aluminium model. Not sure I understand the setup, but, if a narrower seatpost is to be inserted, using an adapter to fit the difference between the seat tube, and the seat post – then no need to change the clamp, if it’s in good condition. Previous to joining the Cycling Weekly team, Michelle was Editor at Total Women's Cycling. She joined CW as an 'SEO Analyst', but couldn't keep her nose out of journalism and in the spreadsheets, eventually taking on the role of Tech Editor before her latest appointment as Digital Editor.

The SAVE Carbon seatpost has been proven in the worlds most challenging bike races. Light, comfortable and incredibly functional. Where it thrives Standard outer diameter dimensions were important so that derailleur clamps etc. could be made in exact matching sizes (derailleur clamp inner diameter needs to match the seat tube’s outer diameter). Higher quality frames are usually made with thinned down tube walls to reduce the weight of the frame. This meant that a wider seatpost diameter usually meant a higher quality (and lighter) frame. So high-quality frames with 1 1/8″ seat tubes usually had 27.2 mm wide seatposts. to status. UK residents only. Sigma Sports Limited acts as a broker “Licence Number 688619” and not It works a treat. You get two upper clamps so you can run 7x9mm carbon rails or 7mm round alloy rails. The lower clamp can be reversed depending on your desired saddle angle in relation to your frame’s geometry. Once the saddle rails have been inserted in between these two clamps it's just a case of tightening the titanium bolts with a 4mm allen key. Micro adjustments are possible once the saddle is pretty much in place: tightening the front bolt will lower the saddle, while tightening the rear will raise it. Westbrook Cycles Ltd is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority, register number 657570 and act as a credit broker and not a lender.The first bicycle frames were made mostly from steel, with steel tubes of a standard (outer) diameter. The British and Italian standard diameter for seat tubes was 1 1/8″ (28.6 mm). Older French bicycles used 28 mm tubing. Old US bicycles (mostly BMX and older bikes that used one-piece cranks) was 1″ (25.4 mm). Yes, 26 mm is not the most commonly used size (though it is listed in Table 1 above), but I could find it online. If you don’t have calipers, you’re hard-pressed to get the diameter. An adjustable wrench can be used as calipers, then measure the gap on the wrench. However, it’s almost impossible to distinguish 0.2 mm increments with a tape measure.